Dutch Apple Pie (Stouffer's of Ohio, 1922); Palace Court Salad
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Bapopik at AOL.COM
Sat Sep 22 04:37:35 UTC 2001
See the archives for other posts on these two American dishes. Paddleford discusses them here in greater depth.
In the (archived) 1938 "Dutch apple pie" article, Paddleford had left off the "Stouffer's" brand name, perhaps because of newspaper policy at that time.
DUTCH APPLE PIE
From the NEW YORK HERALD TRIBUNE, 19 November 1949, pg. 9, col. 7:
_Battle Over Apple Pie Still Rages_
_Postcard Voters Stress Their Favorites; Story of_
_the Dutch Variety, at Stouffer's, Is Told_
By Clementine Paddleford
DUTCH PIE--(...) The pie is Stouffer's Dutch apple. It's the pie Mrs. A. E. Stouffer baked for her son Vernon to sell at asummer stand he set up in Dad's creamery in Cleveland, Ohio, around 1922. Vernon, home from college for a summer vacation, wanted to earn money and decided on a lunch stand. Dad supplied the buttermilk. Mom made the pie and the lad made money. Once Cleveland had tasted the Dutch apple pie, Vernon's business kept the whole family busy. Folks came for whole pies. By summer's end Mother was buying apples by the bushel and flour by the 100-pound bag.
DAD TAKES OVER--Dad Stouffer, seeing Vernon's summer success, decided the food business might offer a better return than a creamery. He sold the place and opened a little restaurant on Ninth Street just off Euclid Avenue. Toasted sandwiches, buttermilk and the Dutch apple pie made up the menu. In less than a year the small place had a waiting line at the door, waiting for pie.
(Stouffer's info deleted--ed.)(Col. 8--ed.)
The pie shells measuring ten inches wide hold a full quart of the diced apples. Over the fruit goes a mixture of flour, sugar, milk and plenty of cinnamon, then quickly now into the oven. The up-jutting edges of the apple crisply brown and every last chunk of the fruit takes on a syrupy shine. Cut a slice and notice how juicy and soft.
The crust is thin and flaky, tender under the fork. Neither too long nor too short. It is made with as little liquid as possible, this being the only way to get pastry that doesn't soak the juice when fruit-filled. But not a steely crust either, unwilling to accept a few artful advances from the apple.
PALACE COURT SALAD
From THIS WEEK magazine, NYHT, 11 September 1949, pg. 44, col. 2:
HOW AMERICA EATS
_PALACE COURT SALAD_
By Clementine Paddleford
_It could star on any menu--especially_
_with these world-famous dressings..._
"THERE is a Central Court into which carriages can be driven rising the full seven stories of the hotel past balustraded galleries to an opaque glass roof." This excerpt from a San Francisco newspaper dated 1875 described the entrance to the incredible halls of the newly opened Palace Hotel.
Then the world could scarcely believe what it saw: walls two feet thick, a quarter of a mile in circumference, enclosing an area of two-and-one-half acres; seven stories, 800 rooms, a dining room 150 feet long.
The Palace Hotel is still a world-famous hostelry but less amazing to this generation, surrounded as we are by architectural miracles. Yet no gourmet even today would think of visiting San Francisco and not dining at the Palace. I went knowing exactly what I wanted to eat: the Palace Court Salad. In its own small way it's an architectural wonder.
_Tower of Delight_
THE cobblestoned central court is now the Garden Court dining room. There the salad stars on the menu: a tower of delight. Do it this way:
Salad base is shredded lettuce cut fine as fine--use the scissors. Make a half-inch thick mattress of the shreds to almost cover the plate. Center on this a thick slice of tomato, now a large heart of artichoke (these you buy canned), turn cup side up resting on tomato. Fill the cup with cooked crab meat, cooked shrimp or diced white meat of chicken marinated in French dressing and very well drained. Build the tower spoonful by spoonful to a peak five inches tall from the base of the artichoke. Over this dip three or four tablespoons of the Thousand Islang Dressing as (Col. 3--ed.) it is made at the Palace. Add two tablespoons sieved yolk of hard-cooked egg to bank the base of the salad like a golden wedding band. Umm--a good dressing!
(Recipes for Thousand Island Dressing and Green-Goddess Dressing follow...The "Garden Court" was called the "Palm Court" before 1942--ed.)
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