"Par bake" (bread); Dorgan on Journal-American (!)

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Wed Mar 10 05:53:16 UTC 2004


PARBAKE/PAR BAKE

PARBAKE--273 Google hits, 109 Google Groups hits
PAR BAKE--633 Google hits, 56 Google Groups hits
PARBAKING--25 Google hits, 13 Google Groups hits
PAR BAKING--124 Google hits, 25 Google Groups hits


(OED)
parbake, v.
nonce-wd.
    trans. To bake partially, half bake.
  1885 MRS. RITCHIE Mrs. Dymond I. vi, Everything was so hot and so glaring that very few people were about; a few par-baked figures went quickly by.


   This is the "parbaking" story in Wednesday's NEW YORK TIMES:

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/10/dining/10BREA.html
(...)
Those loaves seemed as crusty and aromatic as Mr. Amaral's handmade breads. The hands that made them, though, were in a factory in New Jersey, where the bread was partly baked and flash frozen in a process called parbaking. Days, weeks or perhaps months ago, the frozen bread was shipped to Hannaford's. This morning, a few minutes in the steel ovens produced bread to order.

Over the last four years, a few big parbaking companies have brought supermarket shoppers around the country so-called artisan breads. Sales of the breads — hand-formed, all-natural, dark-crusted loaves once found only in small bake shops — rose 10 percent last year, according to Mintel Consumer Intelligence, a market-research company, even as the rest of the industry cowered before the low-carb onslaught.

But many bakers say that parbaking creates artisanal bread without the artisan and that bread makers in several communities have been driven out of business after supermarkets started selling parbaked loaves.

Mr. Amaral said he has held his own in the face of the competition. But looking over the massed loaves in Hannaford's bakery department, he concedes that it has been tough. "Customers really have to run the gantlet to find our bread," he said. "I believe that they want to buy local, real artisanal bread. I just hope that they can find it."

What is at stake nationwide is an almost $2 billion slice of the $16 billion bread industry. Last year, sales of artisanal and artisan-style bread in supermarkets and big chains nationwide grew faster than any other part of the bread business: four times faster than the business as a whole, and almost 20 times faster than white bread, according to Mintel. (Bread sales have not fallen in the face of low-carb eating, but they have leveled off.)

Looking for a walnut-rosemary boule in Honolulu? Ralph's, a supermarket, probably baked some this morning. Kalamata olive bread in Kalamazoo? Try Harding's, which can bake a fresh loaf while you finish shopping. Costco stores bake ciabattas and crusty raisin-walnut loaves.

"Foccacia, levain, ciabatta, ficelles — 10 years ago, who knew what a ficelle was?" said Sue Brooks, who is the bakery director for the King Kullen chain on Long Island. "Now customers will come to the counter and say, `You only have baguettes; what happened to the bâtards?' "

Parbaking holds benefits for supermarkets and their customers. For the stores, it means lower costs. Since they bake only what they can sell, there is less waste. For customers, it means great selection, and they seem as willing to pay premium prices — as much as $5 a loaf in some markets — as are customers of artisan-bread shops. (...)
(OT:  OED, how about "ficelle"?--ed.)


(FACTIVA)("Par baking"--38 hits)
PIZZA PROFITS HINGE ON QUALITY OF BASICS. (INCLUDES RELATED ARTICLE ON CHOOSING PIZZA CHEESES) (FOOD SERVICE CONFERENCE)
By Roseanne Harper
725 words
28 September 1992
Supermarket News
42
(...)
Randall's layers crusts with shredded cheese before par-baking. "When we top it later, the cheese cover prevents topping juices from seeping into the crust," Quintanilla said.


(FACTIVA)("Parbaking"--10 hits)
Bobby Rubino's ribs can't lick local favorites // Barbecued shrimp fare better in Westmont
Don Rose
762 words
23 August 1985
Chicago Sun-Times
FIVE STAR SPORTS FINAL
41
(...)
The problem with these ribs is fundamentally texture. There is the spongy feeling and somewhat flat taste that comes from parbaking (or parboiling) ribs before finishing them over the open charcoal grill.


(FACTIVA)
Rising up.(baked and snack foods)(Statistical Data Included)
DOUG BURN
1,901 words
1 January 2000
Food in Canada
26
ISSN: 1188-9187; Volume 60; Issue 1
(...)
With par-bake an artisan or a commercial bakery partially bakes and then freezes items, which are shipped to in-store bakeries or foodservice outlets for final preparation. Par-baked bagels were introduced in the mid-'80s and baguettes in the mid-'90s by the commercial bakeries. Backerhaus Veit and other artisan operations began introducing a wider range of sweet and savory goods in par-baked format in the early '90s. (...)


(FACTIVA)
Buffalo-Based Bakery's Ontario, Canada, Plant Marks Fortieth Anniversary
By Kevin Purdy, The Buffalo News, N.Y.
Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News
733 words
16 September 2003
The Buffalo News (KRTBN)
English
Copyright (C) 2003 KRTBN Knight Ridder Tribune Business News

Sep. 16--When Rich Products Corp. began its first operations in Fort Erie 40 years ago, the small plant had just three employees, and Robert Rich Jr. went out to personally pitch products to bakeries and other customers.

On Monday, representatives from the Buffalo-based company and Ontario government officials celebrated that anniversary with the completion of an $11.5 million (U.S.) expansion of the plant, one that creates 36 jobs and which company officials believe will make both Rich Products and Fort Erie the leader in partially baked breads and rolls.

Howard Rich, president and COO of Rich Products Canada, said the plant is expected to produce over 1 million cases of over 45 partially-baked -- or "par-bake" -- bread products in 2004, a number he expects to grow as demand for value-added products grows.

"We're not only going to grow the par-bake business, but dominate the par-bake business in North America," said Rich, who is not an immediate relative of the company's owners. "This shows our belief in the strength of the Canadian marketplace."

The Fort Erie plant, which opened in 1963 and now employs 268 people making breads, pizza dough and other baked goods, was expanded by 22,000 square feet to a total of 132,000, making room for $7 million in new equipment. In 2002, the plant was shipping about 3.8 million cases.

The par-bake goods coming off the Fort Erie bakery's lines are 80 to 90 percent finished, and will allow Tim Horton's, Subway, supermarket bakeries, and other Rich Products customers to thaw and bake breads and rolls in about 15 minutes, as opposed to two hours for standard bakery dough.

Bill Gisel, chief operating officer of Rich Products, said the expansion was planned with an eye on ensuring additional space would be available as the par-bake market grows.

"There's a demand for more convenient foods at the store and the consumer level, and par-baked is what a lot of stores are demanding right now. That trend is expected to grow, and we'll be ready to grow with it," said Gisel. (...)


(FACTIVA)("Par-bake"--85 hits)
FINISHED PRODUCTS MAY REDRESS LABOR SHORTAGE. (SOME SUPERMARKET BAKERIES ADDING FINISHED PRODUCTS FROM OUTSIDE SUPPLIERS)
By Judith Springer
1,381 words
25 September 1989
Supermarket News
39
(...)
"There's lots of alternatives that you can get away with," Migliara said. "The retailers wanting to open a bakery will have to ask themselves, `Do I go into bake off, thaw-and-sell, par-bake, or sit out for the next five years.'"

However, opinions are mixed over whether thaw-and-sell and par-baked programs offer the quality and consistency that retailers want.

"Today, your par-baked products are very, very consistent, and you have some very good quality," said Bob Hirsch, corporate bakery buyer, Foodarama Supermarkets, Freehold, N.J. "There's very few items today that are not quality in the par-baked category. It's a lower gross profit, but it's definitely a labor savings. (...)

---------------------------------------------------------------
DORGAN ON _JOURNAL-AMERICAN_ (!)
("Hot dog," continued)

   A recent article stated that "Dargan" was a cartoonist on the NEW YORK TIMES--a newspaper that doesn't have cartoons.
   This "hot dog" article just this week states that Dorgan was writing on the 1906 NEW YORK JOURNAL-AMERICAN--a newspaper that would not even exist until 1941.


(NEXIS)
Copyright 2004 The San Diego Union-Tribune
The San Diego Union-Tribune

March 6, 2004 Saturday

SECTION: LIFESTYLE; Pg. E-7

LENGTH: 585 words

HEADLINE: We pause to relish the hallowed hot dog

BYLINE: Don Freeman

BODY:


The most mouth-wateringly delicious hot dog I have ever tasted was one I ate on a particular night in Dodger Stadium. How pleasing to the taste buds that hot dog was. It still reigns in my memory, this hot dog with all the condiments such as mustard, relish and, to enhance its personality, a smattering of onions.

I may have mentioned previously that my affection for the Dodgers is severely limited. By my vote, and I should note that I never heard Red Barber in his prime, Vin Scully, the Dodgers' broadcaster, must rank in his line of work as the best there is and perhaps the best there ever was. Now retired to La Jolla, Buzzie Bavasi wins recognition for having brought the Dodgers his own stature in his time as general manager.

Otherwise, if we're talking about the Dodgers it is only the hot dogs in their playpen that merit praise from me. My claim to expertise is the fact that I have eaten hot dogs in major-league ballparks here and there.

I have eaten adequate hot dogs in Wrigley Field and in Yankee Stadium and in Shea Stadium in New York and in Boston's Fenway Park, too. You may recall that it was at Fenway, in "Field of Dreams," where James Earl Jones is asked what he wants. "A dog and a beer," he says.

Now that is beautiful. A dog and a beer. That is what I will have, too.

Legend tells us that the term itself, hot dog, was conceived in 1906 by a superb sports cartoonist named Tad Dorgan who came out of San Francisco and brought his pen to Hearst's old New York Journal American. They say that Dorgan, an imaginative fellow, sketched a dachshund inside an elongated bun. But, the tale goes, Dorgan did not know how to spell dachshund and disdained a dictionary. Accordingly, he wrote the term "hot dog" instead.

Good story but perhaps fanciful. As told by the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, the term hot dog was coined in 1901 at the Polo Grounds, which in that era was the home field at various times for both the New York Yankees and the New York Giants. On a chilly April day, concessionaire Harry Stevens was losing money trying to sell ice cream and cold drinks. Whereupon Stevens ordered his vendors to buy up all the "dachshund" sausages they could and insert them into soft rolls.

The vendors shouted: "They're red hot! Get your dachshund sausages while they're red hot!" It is said that Dorgan observed the vendors and later, working on deadline, he drew his historic cartoon.

Other stories abound on the subject. The famed newspaperman, author and lexicographer H.L. Mencken, known as the Sage of Baltimore, once wrote: "I devoured hot dogs in Baltimore way back in 1886, and they were then very far from newfangled. They contained precisely the same rubber, indigestible pseudo-sausages that millions of Americans now eat, and they leaked the same flabby mustard."

On June 11, 1939, President Franklin D. Roosevelt and his first lady, Eleanor, were hosts at a picnic in Hyde Park, N.Y., to the visiting King George VI of England and Queen Elizabeth. The Roosevelts served Nathan's hot dogs and beer to the royals. It was reported that the king was so pleased by the hot dog that he requested a second helping.

When, you ask, was a hot dog first sold at a ballgame? The tradition, they say, was begun around 1893 by one Chris Von de Ahe, owner of the St. Louis Browns, whose fans delighted in putting away a dog and a beer.

Don Freeman can be reached by fax at (619) 260-5093; or at mailto:don.freeman at uniontrib.com; or at the Union-Tribune, P.O. Box 120191, San Diego, CA 92112-0191.



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