Peanut Butter; Waldorf Salad; Heavenly Hash

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Sun Apr 2 12:01:03 UTC 2000


MOA COOKBOOKS

     Americans did all of their eating around the Civil War period.  The
Making of America database (only the Michigan one) has, under the subject
"Cookery, American," these cookbooks:

     Goodfellow, MRS. GOODFELLOW'S COOKERY AS IT SHOULD BE (1865)
     Hannah Mary Bouvier Peterson, THE NATIONAL COOK BOOK. BY A LADY OF
PHILADELPHIA (1866)
     Marion Harland, COMMON SENSE IN THE HOUSEHOLD (1872)
     Catharine E. Beecher, MRS. BEECHER'S HOUSEKEEPER AND HEALTHKEEPER (1873)

     The subject "Recipes" yields one more:

     A. S. Wright, WRIGHT'S BOOK OF 3,000 PRACTICAL RECEIPTS (1859)

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PEANUT BUTTER (continued)

     From Sarah Rorer's "answers to queries" column in the LADIES' HOME
JOURNAL, October 1897, pg. 28, col. 1:

     _Peanut Sandwiches_ are usually made from grated peanuts.  Have them
thoroughly roasted, and grate them on an ordinary grater. (...) Or you may
buy for these a peanut butter.

      Another early PB&J is in A COOK BOOK FOR A BRIDE (1932) by Helen E.
Theiss, pg. 27:

     _Peanut Butter and Currant Jelly Sandwiches_
     Mix peanut butter with a little cream to soften.  Add a little melted
butter.  Spread on white or whole wheat bread, and add spoon of currant
jelly.  Cover with slice of bread.

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WALDORF SALAD (continued)

     I was wrong--it is Oscar Tschirky.
     "Apple Salad" and some other variations are in GOOD HOUSEKEEPING, 26
October 1889, pg. 306, col. 1.
     John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD & DRINK: "At some point in
the next two decades chopped walnuts were added, for they are listed by
George Rector in the ingredients for the salad in _The Rector Cook Book_,
which appeared in 1928, after which walnuts became standard in the recipe,
including the one given in _The Waldorf-Astoria Cookbook_ (1981). by Ted
James and Rosaling Cole."
     How about hazelnuts instead of walnuts?
     From the very hefty and important INTERNATIONAL COOK BOOK (1906) by
Alexander Filippini, pg. 536 ("mussaka" is on pg. 862, "mousoka" on pg. 284):

     _SALAD, WALDORF- ASTORIA_
     Cut into julienne strips one good-sized pickled beetroot, two medium,
sound peeled and cored apples, two very tender well-cleaned stalks white
celery, four Spanish sweet peppers, and place all in a bowl.  Crack and
carefully pick out the perfect meats from thirty-six sound hazel nuts, cut
each one in quarters and place with the rest, toss them well in bowl, season
with four tablespoons dressing, mix well, wipe the bowl all around and serve.

     Walnuts are in 365 VEGETABLE DISHES (Philadelphia, 1910), pg. 16:

     _Waldorf Salad._
     Cut equal quanitites of russet apples and celery into dice.  Halve and
peel a similar quantity of walnuts, soak them in fresh water for one-fourth
hour, drain them, and add them to the salad, mixing them well with mayonnaise
dressing.

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HEAVENLY HASH (continued)

     This is from ST. VINCENT'S COOK BOOK (St. Vincent's Hospital,
Jacksonville, FL, 1929), pg. 28:

     _HEAVENLY HASH SALAD_
1/2 pt. cream
4 egg yolks
1 tablespoon sugar
5 tablespoons vinegar
3/4 teaspoons dry mustard (dissolved)
     Beat egg yolks well, add vinegar and sugar, also mustard.  Cook in
double boiler and stir until thick.  (You may double this quantity and put in
jar in cool place as this dressing keeps well).  After it is cooled, add to
whipped cream.  Mix into this dressing one large can sliced pineapple cut
into small pieces, one box Campfire marshmallows cut up and two five cent
packages salted peanuts or almonds.

     Another early "Heavenly Hash" recipe is on page 75 of THE HOUSEHOLD
SEARCHLIGHT RECIPE BOOK (HOUSEHOLD MAGAZINE, Topeka, KS, 1932):

2 Cups Sugar
1 Tablespoon Butter or Butter Substitute
1/2 Cup Blanched and Roasted Almonds
2 Tablespoons Marshmallow Cream
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Flavoring
1/2 Cup Chopped Pecans
4 Tablespoons Grated Unsweetened Chocolate
24 Mashmallows
1 Cup Cream
     Combine chocolate and sugar.  Add cream, and butter or butter
substitute.  Boil to soft ball stage (234-238 F.).  Remove from fire.  Add
marshmallow cream, nuts, and flavoring.  Beat until mixture begins to
thicken.  Place mashmallows on well-buttered dish evenly.  Pour mixture over
them.  Let cool, cut in square with a sharp knife.--Virginia Cooper, New
Orleans, La.

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HAMBURGER (continued)

     "Hamburgh Beef" is on page 122 of THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE (1850) by Alexis
Soyer.
     "Scalloped Cheeseburger" is on page 52 of 100 MEAT-SAVING RECIPES (1943)
by Ann Roe Robbins, but I think OED has "cheeseburger" from the 1930s.

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CHICKEN A LA KING (continued)

     "Chicken a la king" seems to have entered the cookbooks a bit later than
expected.  Mariani has: "However the dish got its name, first mentioned in
print in 1912, it became a standard luncheon item in the decades that
followed..."
     "Chicken a la King" is on page 131 of THE LUNCH ROOM (The Hotel Monthly,
Chicago, 1911) by Paul Richards.

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HUSH PUPPIES

    I'm always on the lookout for these pups.  DIALECT NOTES has 1918.
    A COOK'S TOUR OF THE EASTERN SHORE OF MARYLAND (1949), pg. 35:

    HUSH PUPPIES (...) This name originated around the campfire where they
were tossed to the hounds to keep them quiet.

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VICHYSSOISE (continued)

    An interesting book is GOURMET DINNERS: A BOOK OF GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURE,
WITH THE MENUS OF GREAT MEALS AND THE ORIGINAL RECIPES OF THE CHEFS WHO MADE
THEM (1941) by G. Selmer Fougner (food writer for the New York Sun).
     Some dishes with the chef/recipe coiner:

    "Creme Vichyssoise (Diat)" is on page 270.
    "Beef Stroganoff (Bronner)" is on page 284.
    "French Fried Potatoes (Lady Trailer)" is on page 238.
    "Peach Melba (Escoffier)" is on page 251.



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