NYPL cookbooks (LONG!!)
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Bapopik at AOL.COM
Sun Feb 27 11:29:48 UTC 2000
If you type "cook book" into the American Memory (Library of Congress)
and the Making of America databases, you'll notice that not too many
cookbooks come up. MOA has just two.
Why is this? Don't they think that Americans ate food? Didn't people
write and read about it? Those databases should be filled with cookbooks up
to 1925.
I can't wait much longer. I went through some of the New York Public
Library's pile.
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MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER (continued)
"Chowder (Rhode Island)" is on page 61 of THE WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK
(1910) by Hugo Zieman and Mrs. F. L. Gillette.
"Manhattan Clam Chowder" and "New England Clam Chowder" are both on pg.
17 of Marion White's MOTHER HUBBARD'S COOKBOOK (1944).
The real gem of a book here is GANCEL'S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA OF MODERN
COOKING (The most complete and concise glossary ever compiled and published/
Over 8,000 Recipes and 300 Articles) (1920). It's an OED gold mine. Joseph
Gancel filled the book with whatever term he could find. There are some
alcoholic drinks here, so it appears that some terms date from Gancel's
PETITE ENCYCLOPEDIE CULINAIRE DE LA CUISINE MODERNE (1918).
The NYPL copy is "seventh edition, revised and augmented," but I don't
know anything about the other six. The Library of Congress catalog shows
that he also authored GANCEL'S READY REFERENCE OF MENU TERMS: A GLOSSARY OF
OVER 5,000 NAMES (1915).
Pg. 71 (Soups): _Chowder_, Clam chowder soup, chopped salt pork, onions,
leeks, celery, green peppers, smothered w. butter, cooked clams chopped, add
juice, and pot., tom. in dice, thyme leaf, highly seasoned, in Manhattan or
Coney Island style. Fish chowder the same gar. or Baltimore, no tom., add w.
cream. Canadienne w. haddock, white stock, no tom. Family style, thickened
w. cream sauce and cream, no tom. (Soda crackers).
Pg. 81 (Soups): _Manhattan_, Cl. small marmite, add green corn quen. and
sliced beef marrow.
Pg. 85 (Soups): _New-Yorkais_, Cl. gar. w. royal of tom. and onions pu. quen.
of game, chervil.
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YALE COCKTAIL (continued)
My niece had better get into Yale when she applies (five years from
now)! She had better be a shoe-in! Hot dog! That school owes me, and I'm
not talking about Hillary Rodham Clinton!!
John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD AND DRINK (1999) has: "Yale
cocktail...Named after Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut, though its
origins are unknown; it probably dates from the post-Prohibition era of the
1930s."
From GANCEL'S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA (1920), pg. 433:
_Yale,_ In glass, 1/2 ice, 1 drop syrup, 2 drops orange bitters, 1 drop
Angostura bitters, 2 drops maraschino, 1/2 French vermouth, 1/2 gin, stir,
lemon peel on top.
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PEANUT BUTTER (continued)
"Peanut Butter" is on page 95 of Anna L. Colcord's A FRIEND IN THE
KITCHEN. The book is copyrighted "1899, 1908." If "peanut butter" is in the
1899 version as well, that's another pre-1904 St. Louis World's Fair citation.
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ICED TEA (continued)
The Tea Council (like the Hot Dog and Sausage Council of the American
Meat Institute) will probably still cling to the notion that "iced tea" was
born on one hot summer's day in St. Louis at the 1904 World's Fair.
However, as I look through old cookbooks, the 19th century evidence is
astonishingly overwhelming. Even a glance at a classic guide like Fannie
Farmer's BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL COOK BOOK (1896) shows "iced tea."
THE CENTURY COOK BOOK (1894) by Dr. N. T. Oliver has "iced tea" on page
175.
THE HARTLEY HOUSE COOK BOOK (1901) by Ella A. Pierce has "iced tea" on
page 152.
This is from THE HOME COOK BOOK (1875), pg. 314:
_ICED TEA A LA RUSSE._
To each glass of tea add the juice of half a lemon, fill up the glass
with pounded ice and sweeten.
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HAMBURGER (continued)
"Hamburger steak" is on page 32 of THE CENTURY COOK BOOK (1894) by Dr.
N. T. Oliver.
"Hamburger" is on page 118, under "Meats: Beefsteak" in THE WHITE HOUSE
COOK BOOK (1910) by Hugo Zieman and Mrs. F. L. Gillette.
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FRENCH FRIED POTATOES (continued)
"Potatoes, French Fried" is on page 94 of THE CENTURY COOK BOOK (1894) by
Dr. N. T. Oliver.
"Potatoes, lyonnaise" and "Potatoes, Saratoga Fried" are on page 55 of
THE IDEAL COOK BOOK (1889).
"Potatoes a la Parisienne" and "Potatoes a la Provencale" are on page 46
of NEW THINGS TO EAT AND HOW TO COOK THEM (1894) by Mrs. De Salis.
"Potatoes, French Fried," "Potatoes, Lyonnaise" and "Potatoes, a la
Parisienne" are all on page 60 of THE GOLDEN AGE COOK BOOK (1898) by
Henrietta Latham Dwight.
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JOLLY BOY
DARE has 1896.
"Jolly boys" is on page 116 of THE CENTURY COOK BOOK (1894) by Dr. N. T.
Oliver.
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MINNEHAHA CAKE
DARE has 1906.
"Minnehaha Cake" is on page 75 of THE IDEAL COOK BOOK (1889).
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CHESS CAKE/PIE/TART
John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA has: "The earliest printed reference to the
pie was in a cookbook published by the Fort Worth Women's Club in 1928."
DARE has "chess pie" from 1932.
"Chess Cakes" is on pg. 325 of THE WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK (1910) by Hugo
Zieman and Mrs. F. L. Gillette.
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BROWN JOE
DARE has this under "joe flogger." There are only two 19th century
citations, in 1852 and 1889.
This is from THE HOME COOK BOOK (1875), pg. 247:
_BROWN JOE._ Mrs. O. L. Wheelock.
Two cups of Indian meal, two of flour, one of molasses, one pint of milk,
one teaspoon of soda, same of salt; steam six hours.
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TUTTI FRUTTI
John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA has: "Tutti-frutti is also an ice cream
flavored with various fruits. The term is from the Italian, meaning "all
fruits," and in America dates to 1875 in print.
This (which cites another work) is from THE HOME COOK BOOK (1875), pg.
212:
_TATTI FRUTTI._ From "In the Kitchen."
A rich vanilla cream with candied cherries, raisins, currants and
citron. The fruit must be added when the cream is nearly frozen.
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NEW YORK COOKIES
"New York Cookies" is on pg. 544 of 600 SELECTED RECIPES (1892)
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EMPANADAS
Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD AND DRINK: "The word was first
printed in 1920. _Empanar_ in Spanish means 'to bake in pastry.'"
THE GOLDEN AGE COOK BOOK (1898) by Henrietta Latham Dwight has
"Emparadas" on page 70 and "Frijoles Fritos" on page 71.
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THE SOMETHING-DIFFERENT DISH
THE SOMETHING-DIFFERENT DISH: ODD IN NAME, BUT GOOD TO TRY WHEN YOU WANT
TO HAVE A CHANGE (1915) by Marion Harris Neil contains:
Bubble and Squeak, Dog in a Blanket, Toad in the Hole (all facing pg. 13),
Maids of Honor (pg. 13), King Henry's Shoestrings (pg. 13), Kickshaws (pg.
21), Petticoat Tails (pg. 21), Rough Robin (pg. 21), Carpet Bag (pg. 30),
Love in Disguise (pg. 30), Poor Man's Goose (pg. 30), Stoved Howtodie (pg.
45), Country Captains (pg. 45), Jenny Lind (pg. 51), Flimsy (pg. 51), Huff
(pg. 51), Doctor Johnson (pg. 56), Scotch Mist (pg. 56), Spotted Dick (pg.
56) (I WANT NO "SPOTTED DICK" QUESTIONS ON MY NEXT VACATION! I TELL PEOPLE
ABOUT THE "HOT DOG," AND THEY'RE ALWAYS ASKING ME ABOUT SPOTTED DICK!!!!),
Nun's Sighs (pg. 69), Faggots (pg. 69) (I guess the items and this page
number are a coincidence), Log of Wood and Bird Cake (pg. 69), Tops and
Bottoms (pg. 72), Bachelor's Buttons (pg. 72), No Matters (pg. 72), Philpy
(pg. 75), Parliaments (pg. 75), Siamese Twins (pg. 75), Cry Babies (pg. 83),
Love Wells (pg. 83), Irresistibles (pg. 83), Lobs-Lie-By-The-Fire (pg. 93),
Cat's Tongues (pg. 93), Pikelets (pg. 93), Fat Rascals (pg. 94), Bird's-Nest
Cake (pg. 94), Devils on Horseback (pg. 113), Tom Thumbs (pg. 113), Hopping
John (pg. 113), Salmagundi (pg. 119), Hen's-Nest Eggs (pg. 119), Bedspreads
(pg. 119).
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ZWIEBACK
"Zwieback"--a food item forever destined to come in last.
"Norwegian Rolls and Zwieback" are on page 18 of THE GOLDEN AGE COOK
BOOK (1898) by Henrietta Latham Dwight.
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