THE COOK (continued)

[Bapopik at AOL.COM]

     Happy Saint Patrick's Day.  I have not much to add to "Fighting
Irish"--it was well covered in a recent Notre Dame history book.  The 1886
date is too early and the 1920s NYC sportswriters use is too late.  The
nickname was used on campus by 1920.
    On Monday, I'll probably hit the NYPL and check out THE CATERER AND
HOUSEHOLD MAGAZINE (1882-1887).  It was published in Philadelphia and comes
up under the subjects "Cookery-Periodicals" and "Recipes-Periodicals."
    More from THE COOK (New York, 1885-1886):

FILET MIGNON--John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD & DRINK has, "The
term, first used in American print on a menu for New York's Architectural
League for February 9, 1899..."  The NYPL probably has an earlier menu cite
on line by now.  THE COOK, 11 May 1885, pg. 6, col. 2, has a recipe for
"FILET MIGNON, SAUCE BORDELAISE...'Filet Mignon' means a delicate, small,
favorite piece of fillet or tenderloin of beef."

FRANKFORT SAUSAGES--14 December 1885, pg. 6, col. 1, "FRANKFORT
SAUSAGES--These sausages, being smoked, are very appetizing, and quite
appropriate for the American table at this season.  While they are
characteristically a German dish, they may be made more healthful by much
longer cooking than is usually given them.  Our German brethren are quite
satisfied with 'Frankfurter' cooked but a few minutes, but as these sausages
contain pork, they, in my opinion, require twenty minutes' boiling.  A very
nice way of cooking them is to heat them in a hot frying pan in a few
minutes, then add boiling water, and boil them rapidly until done.  If they
can be steamed they will be found excellent."

HAMBURG STEAK--30 March 1885, pg. 7, col. 2, "A DOCTOR'S 'HAMBURG' STEAK.
Salisbury steak appears to be giving remarkably good results as a diet for
people with weak or disordered digestion, but who require the supporting
power of animal food..."
     Recipe on 23 November 1885, pg. 6, col. 1, "HAMBURG STEAK.--...Some like
it raw, highly seasoned with finely chopped raw onion and parsley, cayenne,
salt, and the yolk of a raw egg.  Others eat it very rare, and some insist on
cooking it almost as dry as chips...."

ICED TEA--Recipe on 25 May 1885, pg. 6, col. 2, "ICED TEA.--Now that hot
weather is fairly upon us we turn to cooling drinks for relief...."

ICED COFFEE--Recipe on 1 June 1885, pg. 6, col. 2.

OLD BLACK JOE--13 April 1885, pg. 8, col. 1, "the simple hoe cake of 'old
black Joe.'"

PRIESTS' EARS--14 September 1885, pg. 5, col. 2, "'Priests' Ears,'
('_Arrecchi dei Preti_') is made of very fine macaroni shaped like a man's
ear.  I have never seen it in the United States."

PIZZA (?)--14 September 1885, pg. 5, col. 2, "ITALIAN HOMES" article,
"Another Neapolitan dish, is a pie, with sardines laid around in layers.
There is just a taste of garlic to it."

CHOWDER--15 June 1885, pg. 9, col. 1:
     _REAL CHOWDER._
     "Here, waiter!  Take this conglomerated mess of fish, flesh, and
vegetables away, I ordered chowder!  I did! and I know what chowder is, for I
am from old Nantucket, where the dish originated," said the old skipper...
(Recipe follows--ed.)
     The average person would call the above a sort of fish fricassee, and as
much of a mystery to them as was the chowder to our friend, the skipper.
     Chowder is a favorite Summer dish all along the coast, from Maine to
Maryland, but no two places prepare it exactly alike.  Some are better than
others, but all are good.  The following recipe is the famous Marblehead
(Mass.) chowder, made by Amini Brown, and is known as THE "Chowder of
Massachusetts Bay"--(...)
     Rhode Island chowders are more complicated, and invariably contain
tomatoes and a strong flavor of thyme.  Most of the chowder made in the
vicinity of New york is prepared after this formula.  Last year it was served
to perfection at Glen Island.