Chiffon Pie/Cake & much more

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Mon Aug 20 05:40:53 UTC 2001

CHIFFON PIE/CAKE (continued)

   From the NEW YORK HERALD TRIBUNE, 23 February 1948, pg. 10, col. 6:

_12-Egg Cake With Only 7 Eggs Named Chiffon_
_First New Type to Appear_
   _in 100 Years Is Created_
   _in Betty Crocker Kitchen_
   By Clementine Paddleford
   A new cake is born, a new cake is christened--its name is chiffon.  This is the first new cake type to appear in 100 years--now the cake kinds are three, the angle-sponge, the butter cake and the new sister with name borrowed from a pie.
   A MAN'S IDEA--Twenty years ago in California Harry Baker, then forty-four, discovered a way to bake a light-flavorful cake that would stay moist longer than the usual kinds.  The movie stars bought his cake direct from the kitchen and Hary (sic) Baker sold cakes to the Hollywood restaurants.
   Tired of cake making and ready to retire, Mr. Baker looked around for a medium through which to announce his recipe to the women of America.  He thought of the Betty Crocker kitchen and last year visited the General Mills plant and sold his idea.


   Just in case Dennis Preston is getting sick of Greek Salad.
   From the NYHT, 21 February 1948, pg. 11, col. 6:

   ...68-45 Ninety-ninth Street, Forest Hills, Queens.  "A Kis Kocsma--what you say in English?  A little restaurant?"  One side is a delicatessen where you can buy the home-made Hungarian salads, the sweets, the gefuelte fish, the Jewish dill pickles.


   OED has 1948 for "manicotti."
   From the NYHT, 13 March 1948, pg. 13, col. 6:

   Friday the manicotte, and the chef never yet has been known to make enough of the stuff.

(Restaurant review of the Italian-American, Second Avenue and Sixtieth Street--ed.)

CORN CHIPS & FRITO PIE (continued, ai-yi-yi-yi)

   See Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD & DRINK for "Frito pie."  He notes that Fritos were first sold by Elmer Doolin in San Antonio in 1932, and there's a recipe for "Chili-Frito Loaf" in 1946.
   The photo caption in cols. 7-8 is: "Fritos, the golden fried chips of pressed corn, are used here for a crunchy crisp tamale pie crust."
   From NYHT, 26 January 1948, pg. 12, col. 6:

_Corn Chips Popping Into Mouths All Over U.S._
_Fritos' Main Role Is With_
   _Drinks, Can Also Be Used_
   _in a Variety of Dishes_
   By Clementine Paddleford
   It was in 1933 that the Texan (C. E. Doolin--ed.) walked into a San Antonio cafe and picked up a sack of corn chips to munch with coffee.  The flavor tickled his fancy, it lingered in memory.  He found the maker was a San Antonian of Mexican extraction who claimed to be the originator of the thin ribbons of corn.  The Mexican, he learned, was tired of frying the chips; he wanted to go home to Mexico and would be glad to sell out.
   Lucky Doolin bought the formula for $100 and right from the start Fritos won a following.
(...)(Col. 7--ed.)
   COOKING WITH FRITOS-(...)Or use them as we used them today as a hot-tamle pie crust: take two cups ground meat and fry in two tablespoons of fat until brown; add one tablespoon salt, one-fourth clove garlic minced, one tablespoon chili powder and one cup meat stock, mixing well.  Link a nine-inch pie pan with one and one-half bags of crushed Fritos.  Add meat mixture and cover top with remaining one-half bag of the crushed chips.  Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a hot oven.  Yield: four portions.


   From Clementine Paddleford's trip to Bermuda in the NYHT, 21 January 1948, pg. 18, col. 2:

   _Home of the Swizzle_
   A stop at Swizzle Inn, birthplace of the swizzle, its creator, Bill Travers.  Now it's Leroy Trott, who for eleven years has mixed the secret potion under the counter.


   Also from Clementine Paddleford's Bermuda trip, NYHT, 24 January 1948, pg. 11, col. 7:

   The Continental cocktail as an after-dinner drink is a new one to us.  This combines two parts boiling hot coffee to one-part maraschino juice to one-part gin.


   From the NYHT, 24 April 1948, pg. 11, col. 7:

   LET'S DRINK--The bar makes a to-do over old time drinks.  Shady Lady for one, a combination of blackberry brandy and vodka with a sour squirt of lemon.  Much Gusto a tequila base, heaven help you.


   From the NYHT, 30 January 1948, pg. 12, col. 8:

   Did you ever try the miniature raviola called Cappelletti?  These are tiny dough rings filled with Italian ham, parmesan and mozzarella cheese al lightly seasoned.  Add them to rich broth for a soup of substance.


   From the NYHT, 17 April 1948, pg. 11, col. 6:

   SHRIMP-IN-JACKET--Pin Nella down to things culinary.  She is proudest perhaps of broiled shrimps-in-jacket.  The shrimp are washed, then put to marinate twelve hours in a mixture of lemon juice and olive oil, then the condiments added: a pinch of cayenne, peppercorns, parsley, this finely cut, now a handful of garlic toes, next the long soak.  The shrimp are broiled and served in their jackets with a little dish of the marinate going along as a sauce.  Peel the shrimp with your fingers, eat with your fingers.  Messy but swell!


   From the NYHT, 4 February 1948, pg. 24, col. 6:

_Java Shrimp Wings Compete With Potato Chips_
_Family Brings Recipe to_
   _Add a Fresh Touch to_
   _Salads and Cocktails_
   By Clementine Paddleford
   Some call it Sultan's Bread.  We call it shrimp wings.  Mrs. Kian Chong Be, here from the Dutch East Indies, calls it Kroepoek, also that's the true name.  The recipe for this dried shrimp chip, which expands in hot fat to four times its original size, Mrs. Kian Chong Be brought to New York from Samarang, Java, when she came here to live.  (...)  Kroepoek to the Javanese is as the potato chip to Americans.


   From the NYHT, 22 January 1948, pg. 14, col. 6:

   But Lobster Cardinal is the dish traditional which few Americans know, and high time they did.  So it was that lobster in red sauce had the stage yesterday afternoon at the Cordon Bleu class meeting for its third session in the Home Institute auditorium.


   "Lobster American" in the Cordon Bleu class is described in the NYHT, 5 February 1948, pg. 22, col. 8.
   From the NYHT, 16 February 1948, pg. 10, col. 6:

   LIVE AND LEARN--Today it's Jeanne Owen, secretary of the Wine and Food Society, giving us a professional unfrocking.  We wrote a cute little paragraph on the transition of Lobster "Amorican" into Lobster American.  We were quoting Dione Lucas, director of the Cordon Bleu cooking school, but that's no excuse for our not taking time out to check on the facts.
   Here's Jeanne taking over: "May I set you right on a bad mistake regarding 'Lobster Americaine,' once called 'Lobster Armoricaine' (not 'Amorican') as you wrote it?
   "First of all, Armorica never was a region in Auvergne which is in the mountains of the Massif Central where they raise sheep for the milk that goes into the making of cheese--but was the name of Brittany in the time of the Gauls.
   "In the name of the 'Congres Gastronomique' which met in Paris in November, and among many resolutions passed one was: 'That the names of dishes (les plats classiques) should be protested and defended as in the case of the names of wines.'
   "Lobster a l' Americaine is not nor has ever been prepared with green beans, no sherry, nor--perish the thought--Hollandaise sauce!  What would Monsieur Pellaprat say if he saw that in the name of 'Cordon Bleu,' not to mention the 'ten liqueurs' in the Crepes Suzette a few weeks ago?
   "The dish was originally lobster Provencale for, as Montagne says, 'The olive oil, the tomatoes, garlic and white wines, etc., that go into it are all part of Mediterranean cooking.
   "With a Provencale mother, a Norman father, a Bordelaise mother-in-law and raised on French cooking as I was--and all the years spent in France, I feel I know a little about what I write."

SPINACH ROLL--a recipe is in THIS WEEK, NYHT, 28 March 1948, pg. 32, col. 3.

QUICK TEA RING--a recipe is in THIS WEEK, NYHT, 29 February 1948, pg. 35, col. 2.  It's a little different than "coffee ring."

POTATOES ANNA--described in the NYHT, 1 May 1948, pg. 11, col. 6.  Why Anna?

SWISS ROLL--NYHT, 25 February 1948, pg. 16, col. 7: "Take the $5.98 assortment containing Dundee fruit cake, a sponge cake, a Swiss roll, sugar and a ready-mix, a bar of chocolate, hard candies, tea and dried eggs.  We may think here in the States we have the finest cakes in the world, but England likes her Dundee cake as we like our chocolate.  The Swiss roll is one of the popular bakery items of the kingdom, a sponge lighter than we favor, rolled with jelly, either raspberry or strawberry or a chocolate cream filling."


   From the NYHT, 28 February 1948, pg. 11, col. 6:

   It will last for two hours while the drinker "schmoozes and nashes" down $1 worth of ham free.

(Doesn't sound kosher to me--ed.)


   From the NYHT, 29 April 1948, pg. 18, col. 6:

_New Food Packaging Aimed to Boost "Spurchases"_
   "Spurchases" is the new word Du Pont has coined for these spur-of-the-moment decisions.


   From THIS WEEK, NYHT, pg. 2, col. 3:

   _HOT DISH._  According to "Tide," the advertising trade paper, a New Jersey roadhouse serves "Forever Ambergers."

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