Escargot and Bordelaise Sauce (1883); Kalbi (1966)
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Bapopik at AOL.COM
Thu Dec 19 04:53:36 UTC 2002
ESCARGOT AND BORDELAISE SAUCE
OED and MERRIAM-WEBSTER both have 1892 for "escargot." OED has 1892 for "Bordeaux mixture." MERRIAM-WEBSTER has 1902 for "Bordelaise sauce."
"Escargot" was either introduced or popularized by the Delmonico's restaurant in New York.
3 February 1883, CINCINNATI ENQUIRER, pg. 11, col. 7:
_SNAILS AS A TABLE LUXURY._
_The Learned Barber Discourses on a_
_Gastronomical Topic--Escargot, or_
_Snail, on the Bill at Delmonico's as_
_Often as the French Steamers Come_
_In, and Served at Sixty cents a Portion._
(New York Sun.)
Escargot is to a Frenchman what pumpkin pie and turkey are to the Yankee.
"Are they sold in cans?"
"Yes; they are put up like sardines. There is the _pate escargot_, which is a sort of paste; and there is a _sirop escargot_, which is a liquid, and is delicious when served with Bordelaise sauce. As I said before, the merit of _escargot_ as a food depends very much upon the sauce with which it is served.
From HARPER'S WEEKLY, 1 September 1860, pg. 555:
. . . the
empire was ransacked for the finest and fattest
specimens. The practice of fattening snails for the
table lasted for many centuries; and there were to
be found many establishments for this purpose,
known as escargotieres, in France, Belgium, Swit-
zerland, and Austria, during the last century.
Like the frog, the snail never found many ad-
mirers in England as a comestible; but in France,
especially . . .
A little earlier is MAKING OF AMERICA (Michigan, Books), William Makepeace Thackeray, PUNCH'S PRIZE NOVELISTS: THE FAT CONTRIBUTOR, AND TRAVELS IN LONDON (NY: D. Appleton and Company, 1853), pg. 80, "Over a _salmi d'escargot_ at the Coventry..."
Also a little earlier is MAKING OF AMERICA (Michigan, Periodicals), APPLETON'S JOURNAL, January 1879, pages & &8, February 1879, pages 99 & 102.
These last two, however, are European "escargot" cites.
MAKING OF AMERICA (Michigan, Periodicals) has THE GALAXY, October 1867, pg. 150, "Mushrooms sautee, a la Bordelaise," and THE GALAXY, April 1868, pg. 475, "ecrivesses a la Bordelaise."
Kalbi, or Kal bi, are Korean short ribs, and I saw them in many places in Hawaii. There is no OED entry. "Korean short ribs" has over 8,000 Google hits.
30 December 1966, NEW YORK TIMES, pg. 29:
...a well conceived menu that also lists several Korean dishes including bulkoki (broiled marinated beef) and kalbi (broiled short ribs of beef).
(Tamura Restaurant on Liberty Street--ed.)
January 1971, GOURMET magazine:
Short ribs, broiled,
Korean (Kalbi Kai)...44
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