Escargot and Bordelaise Sauce (1883); Kalbi (1966)

Bapopik at AOL.COM Bapopik at AOL.COM
Thu Dec 19 04:53:36 UTC 2002


   OED and MERRIAM-WEBSTER both have 1892 for "escargot."  OED has 1892 for "Bordeaux mixture."  MERRIAM-WEBSTER has 1902 for "Bordelaise sauce."
   "Escargot" was either introduced or popularized by the Delmonico's restaurant in New York.

   3 February 1883, CINCINNATI ENQUIRER, pg. 11, col. 7:
_The Learned Barber Discourses on a_
   _Gastronomical Topic--Escargot, or_
   _Snail, on the Bill at Delmonico's as_
   _Often as the French Steamers Come_
   _In, and Served at Sixty cents a Portion._
   (New York Sun.)
   Escargot is to a Frenchman what pumpkin pie and turkey are to the Yankee.
   "Are they sold in cans?"
   "Yes; they are put up like sardines.  There is the _pate escargot_, which is a sort of paste; and there is a _sirop escargot_, which is a liquid, and is delicious when served with Bordelaise sauce.  As I said before, the merit of _escargot_ as a food depends very much upon the sauce with which it is served.

   From HARPER'S WEEKLY, 1 September 1860, pg. 555:

. . . the
empire was ransacked for the finest and fattest
specimens. The practice of fattening snails for the
table lasted for many centuries; and there were to
be found many establishments for this purpose,
known as escargotieres, in France, Belgium, Swit-
zerland, and Austria, during the last century.
     Like the frog, the snail never found many ad-
mirers in England as a comestible; but in France,
especially . . .

   A little earlier is MAKING OF AMERICA (Michigan, Books), William Makepeace Thackeray, PUNCH'S PRIZE NOVELISTS: THE FAT CONTRIBUTOR, AND TRAVELS IN LONDON (NY: D. Appleton and Company, 1853), pg. 80, "Over a _salmi d'escargot_ at the Coventry..."
  Also a little earlier is MAKING OF AMERICA (Michigan, Periodicals), APPLETON'S JOURNAL, January 1879, pages & &8, February 1879, pages 99 & 102.
  These last two, however, are European "escargot" cites.
  MAKING OF AMERICA (Michigan, Periodicals) has THE GALAXY, October 1867, pg. 150, "Mushrooms sautee, a la Bordelaise," and THE GALAXY, April 1868, pg. 475, "ecrivesses a la Bordelaise."


   Kalbi, or Kal bi, are Korean short ribs, and I saw them in many places in Hawaii.  There is no OED entry.  "Korean short ribs" has over 8,000 Google hits.

   30 December 1966, NEW YORK TIMES, pg. 29:
   ...a well conceived menu that also lists several Korean dishes including bulkoki (broiled marinated beef) and kalbi (broiled short ribs of beef).
(Tamura Restaurant on Liberty Street--ed.)

   January 1971, GOURMET magazine:
   Short ribs, broiled,
      Korean (Kalbi Kai)...44

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