New Haven's "White Pizza" (1980), "Stuffed Pizza" (1969)

Laurence Horn laurence.horn at YALE.EDU
Sun Feb 9 04:36:44 UTC 2003


At 10:34 PM -0500 2/8/03, Bapopik at AOL.COM wrote:
>    OED doesn't have "white pizza."  OED doesn't have "stuffed
>pizza."  I don't know what those editors eat, but it can't be much.
>    This is what the full-text NEW YORK TIMES has.  New Haven isn't
>that far from New York.  The cites, however, are years late.  I
>wouldn't be surprised if the "pizza" articles in the CHICAGO TRIBUNE
>beat the NEW YORK TIMES coverage of New Haven.
>
>
>    16 February 1983, NEW YORK TIMES, "The Pizza Trend in America" by
>Florence Fabricant, pg. C1:
>    The "white pizzas" without tomatoes sold at places like Ray's on
>Prince Street, Dean & DeLuca and DDL and the "pizza blanca" popular
>in Rome share a common inspiration.  Another kind of white pizza is
>the white clam sauce pizza, which many people associate with
>Sally's, a restaurant in New Haven.  It is also made at Tomasso's in
>the Italian North Beach area of San Francisco and, for the last two
>years, in New York at Aiello's Pizza Emporium on Second Avenue and
>32d Street.
>
>    2 January 1980, NEW YORK TIMES, pg. C1:
>    ...in New Haven, you can find a version of "white pizza," a
>thick, yeasty dough covered with white clam sauce.

Weird.  I've always thought of authentic New Haven apizza [aBI:TS] as
necessarily THIN-crusted, including Sally's excellent white clam
pizza.   I also recall white pizzas (not with clams) from my year in
Ann Arbor in 1969-70, in Greek-run pizza emporia.  Basically, any
pizza with cheese and no tomato sauce was called "white".  It would
certainly predate 1980, as would Sally's white clam pizza.  Frank?
Fred?

Larry



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