Locro (1867, 1875); Chupe, Chuno (1875)
Bapopik at AOL.COM
Bapopik at AOL.COM
Fri Sep 19 08:14:18 UTC 2003
"Locro" is not in OED or Merriam-Webster. There are 7,170 Google hits
(mostly Spanish), but a still considerable 1,160 English-language hits.
"Chupe" isn't entered, either. There are 22.200 Google hits (again,
mostly Spanish) for "chupe" and 60,900 for "chupes."
OED has "chuno" from 1909.
We don't have to historically research every "Nuevo Latino" dish that
Douglas Rodriguez serves up, but why not?
LATIN LADLES:
FABULOUS SOUPS & STEWS FROM THE KING OF NUEVO LATINO CUISINE
by Douglas Rodriguez
Berkeley, CA: Ten Speed Press
128 pages, paperback, $17.95
Pg. 52:
CHUPE DE MARISCO
[lick-your-fingers-good seafood chowder]
_Chupes_ are South American chowders, usually made with potatoes, vegetables,
and some type of meat or seafood for flavoring. _Chupe_ might have derived
from the Spanish word _chupar_, which means "to suck" or "to absorb." Chupes
are so delicious,you'll want to run your finger around the inside of the bowl
and lick off every last drop. South Americans believe that a chupe is no good
if it doesn't make you sweat. So the soup has to be spicy and served piping
hot. I like to use big shrimp because I think it's important to see their
color and half-moon shape in the soup. A classical garnish for this soup would
be hard-boiled eggs, but it's delicious with or without them. With a salad and
a piece of country-style bread, this soup is a meal.
Pg. 86:
LOCRO DE PAPAS
[creamy peasant-style potato soup]
_Locro_ is a very simple, peasant-style soup that always has potatoes in it.
There are many kinds of locros; this happens to be one of my favorites. Make
sure to use gold potatoes, as the Ecuadoreans do.
FOUR YEARS AMONG THE ECUADORIANS
by Friedrich Hassaurek
edited and with an introduction by C. Harvey Gardiner
Carbondale and Edwardsville: Southern Illinois Univeristy Press
1967
Originally published as FOUR YEARS AMONG THE SPANISH-AMERICANS
1867 first edition
1868 second edition
1881 third edition
This is a classic book about Ecuador. It's been around for over 130
years. OED missed it completely.
Pg. 3: At night the air is rent by the lively and sometimes witty
exclamations of boys, offering for sale a kind of candy called carmelo, tallow candles,
tamales (a peculiar dish of the country), ice cream, if ice happens to be in
town, etc.
Pg. 19: Their food they generally carry with them. It always consists of a
quantity of barley meal, which they eat raw, a few pieces of aji (cayenne
pepper), which they take like fruit, and sometimes a bag of toasted Indian corn.
These provisions maintain them during the day, and in the evening they mostly
manage to get, either at the expense of the traveler or the chief arriero, a
plate of locro (a potato soup, mixed up with cheese, eggs, and Spanish pepper).
Pg. 146: The breakfast consisted, as usual, of locro de queso (a potato soup
with cheese and aji), fried eggs, with baked plantain slices and toasted
bread, some meat, and to my utter astonishment, chocolate...
Pg. 153: The stock offered for sale consisted of the common rum of the
country (aguardiente), distilled from the sugarcane of the province, and preserved
in hides; of anisadas (rum seasoned with anise seed), and of mistelas
(sweetened liquors).
Pg. 153: They were the cookshops, and aji de cuy, aji de queso, aji de
lobrillo, locro, cariucho, and other national dishes, were prepared for those who
had money to pay for them. As potatoes form the principal ingredient of all
these dishes, but very little money was required. No crockery was used. The
eatables were filled from the pots into calabashes. Ladles were generally
wanting, smaller calabashes supplying their places.
Pg. 175: Here they sell macanas (a sort of narrow cotton shawl), ponchos,
wool, cotton, beads, rosaries, leaden crosses, strings of glass pearls, collars
and bracelets of false corrals, and other cheap ornaments; meat, fruit,
vegetables, salt, aji, barley meal, and such popular dishes ready made, as cariucho,
locro, choclos, mashca, toasted corn, etc.
THE ANDES AND THE AMAZON:
OR, ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF SOUTH AMERICA
by James Orton
New York: Harper & Brothers
1875
Pg. 36: For food they carry a bag of parched corn, another bag of roasted
barley-meal (_mashka_), and a few red peppers.
Pg. 44: ...prepared for us a calabash of chicken and _locro_. _Locro_, the
national dish in the mountains, is in plain English simply potato soup.
Pg. 84: The aim of Ecuadorian cookery is to eradicate all natural flavor;
you wouldn't know you were eating chicken except by the bones. Even coffee and
chocolate somehow lose their fine Guayaquilian aroma in this high altitude,
and the very pies are stuffed with onions. But the beef, minus the garlic, is
most excellent, and the _dulce_ unapproachable.
Pg. 193: Guayusa, or "Napo tea," is another and celebrated production of
Archidona. It is the large leaf of a tall shrub growing wild. An infusion of
(Pg. 194--ed.) guayusa, like the _mate_ of Paraguay (which belongs to the same
genus _Ilex_), is so refreshing it supplies for a long time the place of food.
Pg. 403: Then, too, the traveler from the mountains, who has been feeding on
_chupe_ and _chicha_, and balancing his worn body on a reckless mule, or a
horse that has nearly reverted to the wild state, transferred to a sumptuous
English steamer, is put into the best of humor, and is ready to bow down to
almost any sign of civilization.
Pg. 423: Here the Aymara women (who do most of the business) squat on the
ground in rows, each with the little pile of _charqui_ (jerked beef), fish,
dried potatoes (called _chuno_), ocas, _aji_ (red peppers), beans, pease, maize,
barley, quinoa, coca, and clay.
Pg. 514: The liquor made from Bananas is called _mazato_.
Pg. 518: The chicha made from it (Pg. 519--ed.) is called "masato."
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