lardcore
Ben Zimmer
bgzimmer at BABEL.LING.UPENN.EDU
Wed Oct 27 16:43:36 UTC 2010
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http://www.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,2027672,00.html
Lardcore: Southern Food with Hard-Core Attitude
By Josh Ozersky, Oct. 27, 2010
Here's the thing about Southern food: For most of our history, it was
the best food in the country, prepared in the warmest and most fertile
region, where biscuits and bacon practically spring out of the earth.
(The vegetables are pretty good too.) But the higher quality the
ingredients, the less you have to do with them, and so Southern
culinary life was, until relatively recently, a long tryptophan trance
of country ham, collards simmered endlessly in pork fat, creamy pan
gravies and other agents of stultifying bliss. Food that good needs
little in the way of adornment, and such efforts over the years
generally flopped.
But a slew of young chefs are taking modern Southern cooking to a new
place, forming a movement in the crucible of high ideals, virtuoso
technique and hard-core attitude. Call it lardcore. It's meticulous,
it's ballsy and it doesn't care what you think of it. In that, it's
very Southern.
---
Stephanie Barna of the Charleston City Paper calls "lardcore" the
"food word of the year":
http://www.charlestoncitypaper.com/charleston/gq-bon-appandeacutetit-pile-on-the-chucktown-love-train/Content?oid=2412724
--bgz
--
Ben Zimmer
http://benzimmer.com/
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