mara[s]chino, Chianti (antedating), manna -- 1783

Joel S. Berson Berson at ATT.NET
Fri Apr 8 14:50:33 UTC 2011


Some stuffs from 1783, courtesy EAN

1)  1783 August

Just Imported in the Brig Diligent, Captain
F[iorentini?] from Leghorn, and to be Sold by
Samuel Inglis & Co. ...  Syracuse, Cyprus,
Maraschino and Chianti Wines, Manna, Almonds in the shell, ...

Chianti antedates OED2 1833 --
Syracuse [wine] interdates OED2  1768 -- 1858
maraschino  interdates OED3 1770 -- 1791-3
manna ? [the meaning eludes me]

Pennsylvania Packet [Philadelphia]; Date:
08-23-1783; Volume: XII; Issue: 1084; Page: [2]; col. 3.

2)  1783 December

For sale, by Willing, Morris & Swanwick, ...
Manchester velvets and corduroys, ... Catalonia
brandy ... wines, Lisbon, Fayall, ... Marachino, Syracuse, Chianti

Chianti antedates OED2 1833 --
marachino  interdates OED3 1770 -- 1791-3
corduroy  interdates OED2  1774 -- 1795
Catalonia brandy not in OED
fayal [wine] not in OED
Syracuse [wine] interdates OED2  1768 -- 1858

Pennsylvania Packet [Philadelphia]; Date:
12-13-1783; Volume: XIII; Issue: 1633; Page: [4] col. 3/

-----
Sorry, no cherry, jelly, or punch in EAN.

At 4/8/2011 04:33 AM, victor steinbok wrote:
>Marasca  1852 -->[ 1836 --> 1838 ]--> 1820
>Maraschino  1770 [unchanged]
>Maraschino cherry  1900 --> 1896 [1894] <-- clearly can be improved
>Maraschino jelly 1850 -->[ 1847 --> 1833 ]--> 1831
>Maraschino punch 1820 [additional citations]
>meringue [definition enhancement--distinction between types]
>Genoise [new]  1847, 1892 ++
>
>An 1807 Italian-English dictionary still finds "Marasca" on the
>Italian side with the English "translation" giving "A kind of sour
>cherry". (Likely duplicated from earlier dictionaries, such as 1760
>Baretti--still reproduced in 1816, 1828 as well.)
>
>http://goo.gl/DEryR
>A journey in Carniola, Italy, and France, in the years 1817,1818 .
>Volume 2. By William Archibald Cadell. Edinburgh: 1820
>p. 18
> >
> > Maraschino.--At Rimini, and other places on
> the Adriatic, is to be met with the liqueur
> Maraschino, made at Zara. The name is derived
> from Marasca, a kind of wild cherry used in the
> preparation; Marasca is the same as Amarasca
> and Amarina, the cherry being so called from its bitter taste.
>
>There are two pieces that may well have served as vectors--aside from
>the popularity of the liqueur proper. One was the 1836 Penny
>Cyclopaedia. The other was Arboretum et fruticetum britannicum by John
>C. Loudon. Loudon grew the trees himself and gave lectures on
>horticulture, including his experiments in growing marasca cherry.
>Both books suffered multiple editions within the next decade.
>
>Note that all of these refer to Maraschino [liqueur], but there is not
>one word about the Maraschino cherries for another 75 years.
>
>http://goo.gl/9yvpV
>Report of Work of the Agricultural Experiment Station of the
>University of California. For the Year 1894-1895. 1896
>EXAMINATION OF PRESERVATIVE LIQUID OF "MARASCHINO CHERRIES.". p. 180
>
>The word "Maraschino" appears only in the title. The analysis is
>actually dated 1894.
>
>There are also two recipes with Maraschino cherry from 1899. Well, not
>quite. The first is a recipe for rice croquettes. The second is merely
>a description (from a dialog) of marshmallow sandwiches.
>
>http://goo.gl/oAEmc
>The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. Volume 4:4. December 1899-January 1900
>p. 198/2
> > Insert a maraschino cherry, or three or four
> preserved strawberries, in the centre of each croquette.
>
>
>The Puritan. Volume 6. 1899
>A Lunch with Mrs. Allen. By John J. Becket. p. 508
> > Have the marshmallows toasted and put a
> maraschino cherry and little parings of crystallized ginger between.
>
>A few additional references for Maraschino punch (under Maraschino
>C1.--the Shelley 1820 date remains intact):
>
>It was tied to Benjamin Franklin:
>
>http://goo.gl/27o7r
>Young Benjamin Franklin: or, The Right Road Through Life. By Henry
>Mayhew. New York: 1862
>Rational Animal No. 11. p. 214
> > He had cut off his "night-cap" of Maraschino
> punch after supper, he said, for he had found
> out at last that that had been doing him a deal
> of harm, though it was delicious tipple, to be sure.
>
>No, it was not Franklin to whom the maroon nightcap is ascribed--it
>was "the gourmand" with whom Franklin was to have been conversing.
>
>It was mocked anonymously by Thackeray on the pages of Punch--his
>authorship of the column was the worst kept secret. (The Book of Snobs
>was published two years later.)
>
>http://goo.gl/RVmk9
>Punch. Volume 10. 1846
>The Snobs of England. Chap. IL. The Snob Royal. p. 115/2
> >  He also invented Maraschino punch, a
> shoe-buckle, (this was in the vigour of his
> youth, and the prime force of his invention,)
> and a Chinese pavilion, the most hideous building in the world.
>
>There is a connection between the two aforementioned volumes, as
>Mayhew also wrote for Punch.
>
>Punch also has an early instance of "Maraschino jelly".
>
>
>http://goo.gl/Frxq3
>Punch. Volume 12. 1847
>Theory and Practice. p. 215/2
> > "The following was the bill of fare :--
> > "Turtle and iced punch.
> > "Salmon, turbot, fried fish, &c.
> > "Side-board,--Petits Pates.
> > "Chickens, capons, turkey poults, larded;
> hams and tongues, ornamented; ribs lamb, raised
> ornamented pies, lobster salads, prawns,
> Chantilly biscuits, ornamented trifles, noyeau
> and maraschino jellies, pine, strawberry, and
> Italian creams; Genvoise pastry, Swiss and
> Venice merangs. Chantilly tartlets, creamed
> tarts, Nesselrode puddings, plovers' eggs, &c.
>
>
>But Punch is not the earliest--apparently, the Maraschino jelly was
>popularized in the 1830s, and not necessarily as dessert.
>
>http://goo.gl/1kVme
>The cook's dictionary, and housekeeper's directory. By Richard Dolby.
>London: 1833
>p. [menu list early in the volume, no page number] Second Course
> > Maraschino Jelly
>
>Another cite is a bit puzzling because it's only a snippet view. But
>there are 46 pages with 1831 and 6 pages with 1832, so it's almost
>certain that the date is from one or the other.
>
>http://goo.gl/ILv4t
>The Metropolitan. Vols. 2-3. 1831-1832.
>[p. 16?]
> > ... but from which luncheons and all
> intermediate refections, together with ice,
> champagne, Roman punch, and Maraschino jellies, are severely banished.
>
>The original is at Oxford, so if someone can verify this, the date can
>be ascertained further. It is also possible that Maraschino Jelly
>(second course--aspic?) and Maraschino jellies (dessert--candy?)
>referred to different kinds of food, neither still extant.
>
>Of particular note in Punch is the reference to "Swiss and Venice
>merangs". OED only has one entry for "meringue" (plus derivatives,
>including a desert made of meringue and fruit and "Chantilly
>meringue").
>
> >A light mixture of stiffly beaten egg whites
> and sugar, baked until crisp; a shell or other
> item of confectionery made of this mixture,
> typically decorated or filled with whipped cream.
> > In some recipes, esp. when meringue is used
> as a topping, cooking of the mixture is stopped
> before it is completely crisp: cf. snow n.1 5a.
>
>This is not quite correct. There are three different methods for
>preparing meringue and the OED article was clearly written by someone
>who was not familiar with the distinction. The baked, crispy meringue
>is usually identified as the "French meringue". The other kind, the
>one that remains somewhat gelatinous, without a crunchy shell, is the
>"Italian meringue", made by whisking hot sugar syrup into pre-whipped
>egg whites--the one here, apparently, referred to as "Venice merang".
>These are quite distinct and share only the main ingredients--sugar
>and whipped egg whites. The consistency of the Italian meringue allows
>it to be sometimes used as cream filling for pastry. It is also the
>traditional top layer on the lemon chiffon pie and in Baked Alaska.
>The Swiss meringue combines the two--it's whipped in a water bath,
>then baked for crisp effect.
>
>But what about the "Swiss merangs"? OED gives an "uncertain"
>etymology, essentially just listing variants of the word in different
>languages. (Dutch appears to be the only West European language that
>has a native word for it. Interestingly, Slavic languages use a
>variant of a completely unrelated apparently French word--Polish,
>Latvian, Lithuanian, Russian and Ukrainian all use variants of
>"bise/beze"--note that Google gives wrong translations for Russian and
>Ukrainian, no translation for Lithuanian, and names of individual
>desserts rather than the category for Serbo-Croatian, Czech, Slovak.
>Of course, if the Russian/Polish version was indeed derived from
>French, then the Bulgarian name целувка is simply a calque for
>"kiss".) Wiki gives two versions, including one that is "contested"
>(from a Swiss town of Meiringen, which certainly /sounds/ unlikely),
>the other simply an invented word by a French chef whose cookbook
>appeared in English translation the same year as the word popped up in
>Phillips's New Words (1706). Wiki also connects an earlier appearance
>of a similar recipe as "pets"  to contemporary French usage (in the
>Loire), which it translates as "farts" (as does Google--which is about
>as far from "kiss" as one can get).
>
>The bottom line is that the OED entry description is wrong--or, more
>accurately, incomplete.
>
>Another culinary standard item that is missing from the OED is
>Genoise, as in Genoise pastry. The reality in modern baking is that
>basic cakes made with no leavening are simply referred to as Genoise
>(occasionally with proper diacritics). There is a citation in the OED
>under mocha adj. B. 1.
>
> > 1892    A. B. Marshall Larger Cookery Bk.
> xii. 475   Moka Cake.‥ Prepare a Genoise
> paste mixture‥, bake for an hour and a
> quarter, then turn out, and, when cold, mask over with Coffee glace.
>
>But the Punch citation above is 45 years earlier! Both should find
>their way into the new entry, when it is established.
>
>VS-)
>
>------------------------------------------------------------
>The American Dialect Society - http://www.americandialect.org

------------------------------------------------------------
The American Dialect Society - http://www.americandialect.org



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