Fwd: Pine Basket By Feather River Baskets
David Lewis
coyotez at OREGON.UOREGON.EDU
Mon Feb 7 18:12:08 UTC 2000
>
>http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/pinebasket.html
>
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/index.html>Information<http:
>//www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/index.html> Garden
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/gourd.html>Gourds
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/pinebasket.html>Pine
>Baskets <http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/row3.html>Row 3
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/p2starts.html>Other Starts
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/rim.html>Gourd w/pine
>needle rim <http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/dye.html>Dyeing
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/links.html>Links
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/supply.html>Supply's
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/myhome.html>My Home &
>Family <http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/gregory.html>Greg
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/2784/chris.html>Chris
>
>
>
>Pine Needle Baskets
>Feather River Baskets
>
>
>
>
>
>Baskets by Debbie Norton
>2784 Heartland Acres
>
>There are many ways to start a basket
>Teneriffe (A wire-covered ring, usually with weaving in the center)
>Knot start (Just like it sounds--a start made from a knot.)
>Nut Slice start (This is done on a black walnut slice.)
>Figure Eight (This is the one we will use. See photos
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acr es/2784/pinebasket.html #2>below.
>Oval start (This is one of the easiest to do.) Donut Start (Very much like
>the figure eight).
>There are probably 20 different ways to start. These are the most popular
>
>Supply's needed:
>Scissors
>Pine needles, washed and dried and "seasoned"
>Raffia, or upholstery thread, or waxed linen
>Needle (I use an 18 sharp)
>A cup or bowl of water if Raffia is used.
>Good lighting
>And Time
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acr es/2784/pinebasket.html
>#1>Seasoned Needles and other terms for now are explained at the bottom of
>the page.
>
>
>You will need 7 to 12 needles to start off. Cut off the black end ( Cap.)
>This makes the ends even. You will want to wet down your raffia and split
>it down till it is about 1/4 of an inch wide. Many people insist the
>raffia stays flat. I like to twist mine. Just twist till it starts to
>twist against itself. This makes it stronger, just like thread, yarn, and
>rope. The twist makes it less likely to wear thin in one place. Tie a knot
>with raffia--do not cut the raffia tail off. Wrap to the end of the
>needles, wrapping over the tail of raffia. This is usually the cut bllunt
>end. Wrapped area should be 1 inch or less.
>Now carefully bend the needles in half. Use the raffia tail as a handle.
>It acts as an extension to the needles, and helps you hold the two groups
>together.
>Do a couple of wraps over the raffia tail. Hold it tight and wrap tight.
>If it is loose, do the whole thing over, please. It should not be loose
>against the needles. This is the end of the first row.
>How to do the figure eight (8). See how the eight crosses in the center?
>That is what needs to happen here. As you start around the blunt end of
>the needles, begin to stitch in the center, crossing under the unwrapped
>needles every third time wrapped. OK, let's say a Wrap looks like a 0 and
>the figure eight looks like the number 8. Then the sequence would look
>like this. 0 0 8 *0 0 8 *repeating.
>The needles in your hand are called the bundle. See how the raffia crosses
>under the bundle. Then is stitched into the center of the first row each
>time you do a figure eight. The Wraps are done just around the bundle.
>Again, it will be wrap, wrap, figure eight, wrap, wrap, figure eight.
>Getting the start is the hardest part of the basket. When you do a figure
>eight, it pulls the two rows together and makes them strong.
>See the arrow--that was the end of the first row and the beginning of the
>second row. Look carefully. See that there are no long stiches sppanning
>the distance between row one and row two. If there is a long stich, then
>you missed going under the bundle when you did your figure eight. You may
>want to add a few needles to the bundle now, too. How? Just poke them into
>the center of the bundle and hold them there while you do a couple of
>wraps. Please keep adding needles every few stitches--it is important to
>keep the size of the bundle the same as the start.
>You should be running out of raffia by now. To start a new string, put the
>needle in the center of the bundle and pull through. Add the new one the
>same way--take the tails and wrap over it along with the needles. Adding
>raffia in this way is only done on a wrap area. It is done diifferently
>once we get to the open core work. Add needles again, please. Once we get
>done with the second row, you can rest your hands.
>The end of the needle is on the beginning of the second row. The end of
>the wrap is the end of the second row If yours looks like this, you are
>done with the hard stuff. You should be able to count from the center hole
>to the outer edge, two rows from all sides. Rest your hands and do some
>neck stretches and shoulder rolls.
>To cut down the load time, we have another page.
>
>
>
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acr es/2784/pinebasket.html #3>top of
>page
>What are seasoned needles? ? Well, to season, many people will soak the
>needles in near boiling water, or soak overnight. If the needles get too
>hot, a white resin will rise to the surface. The needles will be sticky to
>the touch. By doing this and/or soaking over night, your needles will
>absorb too much water. Once you work dries, it can be loose and not as strong.
>So, to season needles. I recommend you simply wrap them in a kitchen
>towel, run warm water on them (10 seconds is enough). Now let them set for
>overnight or 8 hours. Wrap in the wet towel. Tthey will take up as much
>water as is needed. You will be working with dry needles as soon as your
>basket gets to be three inches across . Yes, I said dry needles. Any dry
>needle will bend that much more easily and, again, you want to avoid
>shrinkage.
>
>So what is Raffia, and where do I get it? Raffia grows on the Raffia Palm.
>I highly recommend you do NOT buy it from a craft store. Or, buy the
>fireproof stuff wrapped in plastic. In 22 years of making baskets, the
>best raffia I have ever purchased has always came from The Caning Shop.
>No, I don't get any kick backs. It is just a fact. It is the nicest,
>strongest stuff I've found. It's natural and light in color. It holds up
>to time better than the treated stuff.
><http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acr es/2784/pinebasket.html #3>top of page
>
>© 1997 <mailto:pinebasket at hotmail.com>pinebasket at hotmail.com
>
>This home page <©> Copyright 1998, by Debbie Norton.
>
>Photography by Greg Norton of Creative Images by Greg
>
>Photos <©> Copyright 1998, by Greg Norton
>
>
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David Lewis
P.O. Box 3086
Eugene, OR 97403, USA
541.684.9003 Cell 541.954.2466
talapus at kalapuya.com, coyotez at darkwing.uoregon.edu,
http://gladstone.uoregon.edu/~coyotez
http://www.kalapuya.com
http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~coyotez
Confederated Tribes of Grand Ronde, Oregon
><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><
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