Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink

Bapopik at AOL.COM Bapopik at AOL.COM
Sun Dec 5 10:34:17 UTC 1999

by John Mariani
380 pages, hardcover, $29.95
Lebhar-Friedman Books, 1999

     This is the third edition of a book that was published in 1983 and
revised in 1994.  Mariani's done a great job--it's a good reference.
     CINCINNATI CHILI (From pg. 77, which includes a recipe):  "Cincinnati
chili" was the creation of Macedonian immigrant Athanas Kiradjieff, who
settled in Cincinnati and opened a hot-dog stand called the Empress (named
after the Empress Burlesque Theater in the same building), where in 1922 he
concocted a layered chili (seasoned with Middle Eastern spices) that could be
served in various "ways."  "Five-way" chili was the most elaborate--a mound
of spaghetti topped with chili, then chopped onions, then red kidney beans,
then shredded yellow cheese, and served traditionally with oyster crackers
and a side order of two hot dogs topped with shredded cheese.  Kiradjieff
later changed the name of his chain of eateries to Empress Chili, although
the popularity of another restaurant chain's Cincinnati chili--Skyline Chili
(opened in 1949 by Nicholas Lambrinides)--has for some made the term "Skyline
Chili" synonymous with "Cincinnati chili."
     DAGWOOD SANDWICH...The sandwich first appeared in the comic strip on
April 16, 1936...
     S'MORES...also known as "Princess Pats," "Perfection Crisps," and
"Slapsticks."  (Recipe included--ed.)
      SNICKERDOODLE...A New England cookie made with flour, nuts, and dried
fruits.  The name is simply a nineteenth-century nonsense word for a quickly
made confection.  (Recipe included--ed.)
      The book ends with "A Bibliographic Guide," and "Etymology" is on pages

     The publication of the first three volumes of the _Dictionary of
American Regional English_, edited by Frederic G. Cassidy (1985, 1991 and
1996), was of signal importance in American studies.
     In addition, the first two volumes of the _Random House Historical
Dictionary of American Slang_, edited by J. E. Lighter (1994 and 1997) have
enriched this book on American linguistic studies immeasurably.(...)
    _The Morris Dictionary of Word and Phrase Origins_, by William and Mary
Morris (1977), has the same delight in it for the general reader, as does
_The Merriam-Webster Book of Word Histories_ (1976).
     There is real delight and solid information to be gleaned from Martha
Barnett's _Ladyfingers & Nun's Tummies_ (1997), appropriately subtitled "A
Lighthearted Look at How Foods Got Their Names."

     Hey, let's not get carried away with Barnett!
     There is a section on cowboy slang and lunch counter slang (taken from
the usual sources).
     My recent work on ADS-L is not here, of course.  "Chicken a la King" is
painful to look at.  The "sundae" explanation on page 164 never mentions
Ithaca, New York.
     Mariani just learned of my "hot dog" work (probably in the RHHDAS), but
kept the old myth around, just in case:

     A great deal of etymological research has gone into the term "hot dog"
(1895), but there is still no certainty as to just who first used the words
to describe the sausage....  (A) crucial moment in the promotion of the item
came in 1901 at New York City's Polo Grounds, where director of catering
Harry Magely Stevens is reputed to have heated the roll, added the
condiments, and exhorted his vendors to cry out, "Red hots!  Get your red

    "Wrap" sandwiches are not here....Whatever.
    Still, it's a good reference work.

by Walter Staib
Forewords by Michael Batterberry and John Mariani
223 pages, hardcover, $22.95
Running Press, 1999

     The City Tavern opened in Philadelphia in May 1774.  Very detailed
recipes are given.  This is from page 51:

_Dandelion Salad_
Dandelions come into season late March into early April, depending on your
geographic location.  According to the _Dictionary of American Regional
English_, Pennsylvanians colloquially called dandelion greens salad Dutch

     I know that a few of you are interested in "eggnog" at this time of the
year.  This is from page 172:

_City Tavern Eggnog_
In February, 1796, Issac Weld wrote about a small entourage of travelers that
stopped in Philadelphia for breakfast and enjoyed eggnog.  This is the first
time that the serving of eggnog was documented.  (The BDE speculates "about

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