City of Puppy Dogs and Sausages (1843); Peperoni (1903)

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Sun Oct 13 02:46:08 UTC 2002


London: John Murray and Son

Pg. 69:
   The _mortadella_, everywhere known as the Bologna sausage, still keeps up
its reputation, and the _cervellato_, or pudding of raisinns and fine
kernels, a favourite dish at the table-d'hotes, is claimed as peculiar to the
   Mr. Beckford has designated Bologna as "a city of puppy dogs and
sausages."  The dogs of Bologna, so celebrated in the middle ages, which
still figure in the city arms, and are alluded to in the epitaph of King
Enzius in the church of S. Domenico, were worthy of more respect than is
implied in the flippant remark: they have unfortunately disappeared, and no
trace of their ancient breed can now be discovered.
(The dogs have all disappeared, and now they have sausages?  Hm...--ed.)

Pg. 249:  _Trattorie._
Pg. 250:  ...trattoria.

Pg. 250:  ...Falcone, near the Pantheon, celebrated for the national dishes
of _trippa_ and _testicciuola_ (lamb's brains fried)...

Pg. 250:  _Cafes._  Nazari, in the Piazza di Spagna, by far the best in Rome,
famous for its chocolate and _poncio spongato_, with an excellent
confectioner's shop adjoining...



   Merriam-Webster has 1921 for "pepperoni."  OED has 1934.  I had posted a
NEW YORK TRIBUNE citation from December 1903.
   From the NEW YORK TIMES, 7 June 1903, pg. 28:

_Many Uses to Which "A Few Garlics" Are Put by Women of the Mulberry Street
Colony--Many Other Stuffings Which Are Popular Among Foreigners._
   Roast peppers, "Peperoni arrostiti," are also imported from Italy in cans,
20 cents a can for the best.  They come in red and yellow...
   The largest size, commonly used for the dish described, is "macaroni di
zita," down on Mulberry Street, which is dialect for "bride macaroni."
Mezzani and spaghetti come next.  "Lingua di passi," "sparrows' tongues," are
flat like noodles, and "l'assagne" are long ribbons which one sees hung in
front of the little macaroni factories of the quarter to dry, peacefully
absorbing the dust of the street in the process.  Then there are pastina,
little grains like barley, and spaghettini, long and fine, like hay, which
are used in soup.  All sorts of fancy shapes come from Italy, curly, striped,
or in rings.  One kind, shaped like little cups or scoops, they irreverently
dub "priests' ears."  The imported macaroni ranges from 7 cents a pound up to
15 for the fancy varieties.
   The street dainty called "ginney beans" by the New York gamin, is known as
"lupini" to the Italians.  The beans are boiled, kept in water for two or
three days, and sold from the pushcarts of the quarter for a penny a glass.
"Ceci," "potch pease," or "chick peas." are roasted in a pan of sand in the
oven, and sold at a penny for a much smaller glassful.

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