Hamburger Steak Sandwich (1895); Caesar Salad (1946); Manhattan Clam Chowder

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Mon Feb 23 08:10:43 UTC 2004


   Greetings from New York City.

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MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER

   Waiting for me in the mail was the March 2004 GOURMET.  On the cover is:
"COLLECTOR'S EDITION--NEW YORK."  Collector's edition?  No library gets
GOURMET?
   TIME OUT NEW YORK has been publishing an EATING AND DRINKING GUIDE for
several years.  Robert Sietsema of the VILLAGE VOICE has published much on Cheap
Eats.   Chowhound.com's Jim Leff has a book on NYC food.  There's not a whole
lot of uncharted territory to do here--except for my work that no one knows
about.  This "collector's edition" is a real mishmash.  There's a long article
on Mexican food--a growing presence--but classics like pizza and bagels and egg
creams are nowhere.
   This is the most extended lexical/historical blurb, and it's wrong.  Pg.
160:

MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER
Treat yourself to fresh clams for this recipe--they make all the difference.
This dish originated in Rhode Island during the late 19th century, when, as
story has it, Portuguese immigrants added tomatoes to their chowder.  British
New Englanders believed their creamy chowder to be superior and named the
Portuguese version after Manhattan, presuming that New Yorkers were the only people
crazy enough to add tomatoes.

(The dish was also called "Coney Island Clam Chowder," and not because it
originated in Rhode Island.  Oy.  My plane shoulda crashed--ed.)

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CAESAR SALAD

   Sam Clements has noticed this 1946 "Caesar salad," from
Newspaperarchive.com.  I can't open up the article on this computer.  I tried my Ancestry.com
subscription, but Ancestgry says it has this publication only until 1943....It's
a month or two earlier than what's been posted.
   Yes, I'd posted that the original Cole Porter "You're the Top" lyrics
mention a "Waldorf" salad.

(WWW.NEWSPAPERARCHIVE.COM)
Mansfield News Journal - 8/2/1946
...stint. The big food rage in Hollywood the CAESAR SALAD will be Introduced
to New..
Mansfield, Ohio Friday, August 02, 1946  697 k

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HAMBURGER STEAK SANDWICH

   The hamburger is an important sandwich.  Here's another 1890s citation,
FWIW.  The HAWAIIAN GAZETTE is a new addition to the Newspaperarchive database.

(WWW.NEWSPAPERARCHIVE.COM)
Hawaiian Gazette - 10/29/1895
...poultry, corned beef, veal, sausage, HAMBURGER STEAK (raw or kidneys,
lamb, raw.....or plain bread and butter or ou raw-beef SANDWICHES What Our
Neighbors Say. V That.....shape are popular forms. These artistic SANDWICHES must Dot
lose their freshness.....napkio over the plate of prettily piled SANDWICHES.
Besides the possibility of..
Honolulu, Hawaii Tuesday, October 29, 1895  607 k

(ANCESTRY.COM)
   29 October 1895, HAWAIIAN GAZETTE (Honolulu, Hawaii). pg. 7, col. 1:
   For the differentiation of the sandwich I suggest the following materials:
   THE STAPLE, BREAD.--White, graham, black or rye, whole wheat, Boston brown
bread; biscuits, rolls, scones; wafers, crackers, saltines; dry toast;
gingerbread toasted and buttered.
   THE FILLING, _meats_.--Ham, tongue, poultry, corned beef, veal, sausage,
Hamburger steak (raw or cooked), kidneys, lamb, raw scraped beef (salted,
excellent for invalids and dyspeptics).
(...)
   A word as to style, a prime factor in the success of the sandwich.  With
the exception of boiled ham, chicken, turkey, sardines and raw oysters, the
meats and fish should always be chopped or pounded, as they can thus be seasoned
with more variety.



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