Hunkee Doree (1865) & Maison Doree?

Bapopik at AOL.COM Bapopik at AOL.COM
Tue Dec 27 16:40:49 UTC 2005

FYI, info on the Maison Doree of Paris. Hunkee doree, indeed!
_Creative Cooking School Classical Dishes_ 
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When music lovers think of Daniel-Francois-Espirit Auber it is  with a 
certain amount of awe. In addition to 2 violin and 4 cello concertos, he  composed 
40 operas, including the still popular Masaniello, Fra Diavolo and  others. In 
addition to serving as director of the Paris Conservatory from1842,  he was 
also the court chamber composer under Napoleon III and between 1857 and  his 
death in 1871 composed over two hundred trios and quartets for string  
instruments. In fact, Auber was so prolific that he wrote another hundred pieces  of 
chamber music under the nom de plume of Michel Hurel de Lamare. 
Socially, Auber preferred the company of authors and literary critics to that 
 of composers and, even though he was forty years older than the eldest of 
the  Goncourt Brothers he was an integral part of their social circle. He was 
also  friendly with Victor Hugo and writer-critic Sainte-Beuve with whom he was 
often  found enjoying the bouillabaisse at Paris' luxurious "Maison Doree". 
Auber  always had plenty of money (some of his friends said that he adopted his  
nom-de-plume to avoid paying the high taxes of the day) and also liked to 
have  his meals at "Magny", probably the most popular Left Bank restaurant of the 
19th  century. 

It is important to Frenchmen to be treated well after their  death, and Auber 
has fared well by this standard. Although many of his works are  now 
considered second-rate, his name is difficult to forget because in addition  to a 
Metro station that is named after him inParis, there are streets that carry  his 
name in twenty-six cities and towns. Even his face remains well known  because 
fourteen statues of him have been erected and his portrait has a  prominent 
place in every music conservatory throughout France.

Auber's  wife, a distant cousin of the Rothschild family, rarely accompanied 
him when he  visited restaurants. She wrote once that she "preferred the peace 
and quiet of  her Paris apartment to the noise and sometimes pompous 
intellectuality" of her  husband's friends. The couple did have the custom, however, 
on holiday evenings,  to invite a small group of family and friends to dine 
with them at Maison Doree,  then one of the most fashionable restaurants in 
Paris. Because the chefs here  and at other restaurants knew Auber and respected 
his taste in food, at least  twelve well known dishes have been named after him 
and the following, probably  the most famous was dedicated to him by one of 
the chefs at that comfortable  restaurant in 1860.

Eggs Auber

1/4 kilo smoked duck or mullard  breast
150 gr. each chicken and lean veal, both cooked and chopped
6 Tbsp.  brandy
1 raw egg
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
50 grams  truffles, chopped (optional)
2 tsp. salt
4 large tomatoes
50 gr.  mushrooms, sliced very thinly
1 1/2 cups Sherry wine
1/4 cup chicken  stock
1 tsp. tomato puree 
1/2 tssp. dried oregano
8 eggs, poached just  before ready to serve

Slice the smoked duck breast thinly, fry it until  crisp and then chop it.

In a food processor or blender, blend together  the chopped duck breast, 
chicken and veal. To the mixture add the brandy, raw  egg, pepper, 1/2 teaspoon of 
the paprika and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt. Rub  the mixture through a 
sieve, add the truffles and mix together thoroughly. Place  in an oven that has 
been heated to 100 degrees Celsius just until the mixture  has been heated 
through and then reduce the oven temperature to its minimum,  just to keep the 
mixture warm.

With a sharp knife cut a cross in the top  of each of the tomatoes. Plunge 
the tomatoes into boiling water for 30 seconds,  run them under cold water, 
drain them and remove the skins. Cut the tomatoes in  half and scoop the seeds and 
pulp, leaving the halves hollow. Turn the halves  upside down and let drain 
for 15 - 20 minutes.

Sprinkle the mushrooms  with the remaining salt. In a small saucepan bring 
the sherry wine to the boil  and to this add the mushrooms. Reduce to a gentle 
simmer and cook the mushrooms  for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside to keep warm

In a clean saucepan heat  the chicken stock and in this dissolve the tomato 
paste, oregano and remaining  paprika. Heat, stirring regularly, until the 
mixture thickens  somewhat.

With the chicken, veal and bacon mixture fill the tomato shells  and on each 
half placed one of the poached eggs. Spoon over the thickened  chicken stock, 
sprinkle over the cooked mushrooms and serve at once. (Serves 8  as an 
appetizer or 4 as a luncheon dish).

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