Hunkee Doree (1865) & Maison Doree?
Bapopik at AOL.COM
Bapopik at AOL.COM
Tue Dec 27 16:40:49 UTC 2005
FYI, info on the Maison Doree of Paris. Hunkee doree, indeed!
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When music lovers think of Daniel-Francois-Espirit Auber it is with a
certain amount of awe. In addition to 2 violin and 4 cello concertos, he composed
40 operas, including the still popular Masaniello, Fra Diavolo and others. In
addition to serving as director of the Paris Conservatory from1842, he was
also the court chamber composer under Napoleon III and between 1857 and his
death in 1871 composed over two hundred trios and quartets for string
instruments. In fact, Auber was so prolific that he wrote another hundred pieces of
chamber music under the nom de plume of Michel Hurel de Lamare.
Socially, Auber preferred the company of authors and literary critics to that
of composers and, even though he was forty years older than the eldest of
the Goncourt Brothers he was an integral part of their social circle. He was
also friendly with Victor Hugo and writer-critic Sainte-Beuve with whom he was
often found enjoying the bouillabaisse at Paris' luxurious "Maison Doree".
Auber always had plenty of money (some of his friends said that he adopted his
nom-de-plume to avoid paying the high taxes of the day) and also liked to
have his meals at "Magny", probably the most popular Left Bank restaurant of the
It is important to Frenchmen to be treated well after their death, and Auber
has fared well by this standard. Although many of his works are now
considered second-rate, his name is difficult to forget because in addition to a
Metro station that is named after him inParis, there are streets that carry his
name in twenty-six cities and towns. Even his face remains well known because
fourteen statues of him have been erected and his portrait has a prominent
place in every music conservatory throughout France.
Auber's wife, a distant cousin of the Rothschild family, rarely accompanied
him when he visited restaurants. She wrote once that she "preferred the peace
and quiet of her Paris apartment to the noise and sometimes pompous
intellectuality" of her husband's friends. The couple did have the custom, however,
on holiday evenings, to invite a small group of family and friends to dine
with them at Maison Doree, then one of the most fashionable restaurants in
Paris. Because the chefs here and at other restaurants knew Auber and respected
his taste in food, at least twelve well known dishes have been named after him
and the following, probably the most famous was dedicated to him by one of
the chefs at that comfortable restaurant in 1860.
1/4 kilo smoked duck or mullard breast
150 gr. each chicken and lean veal, both cooked and chopped
6 Tbsp. brandy
1 raw egg
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
50 grams truffles, chopped (optional)
2 tsp. salt
4 large tomatoes
50 gr. mushrooms, sliced very thinly
1 1/2 cups Sherry wine
1/4 cup chicken stock
1 tsp. tomato puree
1/2 tssp. dried oregano
8 eggs, poached just before ready to serve
Slice the smoked duck breast thinly, fry it until crisp and then chop it.
In a food processor or blender, blend together the chopped duck breast,
chicken and veal. To the mixture add the brandy, raw egg, pepper, 1/2 teaspoon of
the paprika and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt. Rub the mixture through a
sieve, add the truffles and mix together thoroughly. Place in an oven that has
been heated to 100 degrees Celsius just until the mixture has been heated
through and then reduce the oven temperature to its minimum, just to keep the
With a sharp knife cut a cross in the top of each of the tomatoes. Plunge
the tomatoes into boiling water for 30 seconds, run them under cold water,
drain them and remove the skins. Cut the tomatoes in half and scoop the seeds and
pulp, leaving the halves hollow. Turn the halves upside down and let drain
for 15 - 20 minutes.
Sprinkle the mushrooms with the remaining salt. In a small saucepan bring
the sherry wine to the boil and to this add the mushrooms. Reduce to a gentle
simmer and cook the mushrooms for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside to keep warm
In a clean saucepan heat the chicken stock and in this dissolve the tomato
paste, oregano and remaining paprika. Heat, stirring regularly, until the
mixture thickens somewhat.
With the chicken, veal and bacon mixture fill the tomato shells and on each
half placed one of the poached eggs. Spoon over the thickened chicken stock,
sprinkle over the cooked mushrooms and serve at once. (Serves 8 as an
appetizer or 4 as a luncheon dish).
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