Monkey Bread and Elephant Ears; Inns & Outs

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Sun Feb 20 10:06:34 UTC 2000


     What could interest a "hot dog" guy more than "monkey bread" and
"elephant ears"?
     Neither term is in THE EATEN WORD (1995) by Jay Jacobs.  Martha
THEIR NAMES (1997) has no monkey bread and just a throw-away line about
elephant ears.
    John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD & DRINK (1999; the new
standard; I'm practically co-author by now) does not have elephant ears.
There's an entry for monkey bread:  "The origin of the name is unknown..."
    "Monkey bread" is not in DARE and not in OED.  It is American, but from

16 December 1997, NEWSDAY, pg. A15--Dani--who met her second husband, Buddy
Greco, through the auspices of Sam Giancana, and later married TV star David
Janssen--hosts Hollywood's most down-home Oscar party, with "farm-food" she
cooks herself, and monkey bread that is apparently legendary.

28 November 1997, LOS ANGELES TIMES, culinary, pg. 2--Dear SOS: I know Cheese
Monkey Bread is an old recipe, but I need it if you have it.--BOB.  Dear Bob:
Ah, memories.  This bread was a rage in the '60s and '70s, when bakeries in
Los Angeles began selling it.  Clever readers reconstructed the recipe, and
we've been printing it ever since.  Later we developed a short-cut recipe,
using refrigerator crescent rolls.  Here are both recipes.

June 1997, SOUTHERN LIVING, pg. 182 (abstract)--Recipes for a breakfast
buffet: orange-raisin muffins, cranberry-raspberry drink, bacon monkey bread,
scrambled egg enchiladas, and apple fritters.

16 February 1996, NEW ORLEANS TIMES-PICAYUNE, pg. L32--Favorites from past
years include monkey bread, a cinnamon-roll-style Southern specialty prepared
by Sylvia Cook, wife of Dillard University president Samuel DuBois Cook, and
West Indian jollof rice.

26 October 1995, LOS ANGELES TIMES, pg. 1A--A carpinteria bakery sells pie,
carrot cake and monkey bread--a sticky cinnamon bun with caramel and nuts
glopped on.

12 January 1995, NEW ORLEANS TIMES-PICAYUNE, pg. F2--Another treat we as
children enjoyed during the holidays was monkey bread.  I all but had
forgotten about it until a friend brought Rock and me a pan of this still
warm from her oven wrapped in a thick towel on the morning of New Year's Eve.
 I remember it being made from scratch, but made with canned buttermilk
biscuits, it's still good!

November 1994, SOUTHERN LIVING, pg. 200 (abstract)--An easy holiday menu for
a gathering of friends is presented.  Recipes include Dijon dressing, hot
crab-and-cheese dip, bacon monkey bread, pecan-crusted turkey cutlets and
Swiss chicken thighs.

October 1990, SOUTHERN LIVING, pg. 148 (abstract)--Recipes for pumpkin bread,
monkey bread, and Irish soda bread.

Nov./Dec. 1985, AMERICANA, pp. 38-47+ (abstract)--Christmastime recipes from
the Queen Victoria Inn (Cape May, NJ) include Steamed Cranberry Pudding with
Custard Sauce, Eggs Florentine, Mincemeat Brunch Cake, Pumpkin Monkey Bread,
Miniature Fruit Cake, and Poppy-Seed Bread.

November 1984, ESQUIRE, pp. C22-24 (abstract)--An array of traditional and
modern sweets makes a particularly effective combination for Christmas
celebrations.  Recipes: mulled-wine punch, Yule log with mocha frosting,
poppy-seed cake, Christmas pudding candy, and snickerdoodles.  Also included
are President and Mrs. Reagan's recipes for persimmon pudding, brandy whipped
cream sauce, and monkey bread.

    To be continued.


    From the book INNS AND OUTS (1939) by Julius Keller (an old-time NYC
restaurant guy):

Pg. 21:  Lunchroom slang had its origin in these two widely known beaneries
(Boss Tweed and Jim Fisk hashhouses on Chatham Street--ed.).  Fish cakes were
"fried sleeve buttons."  Oatmeal was "a plate of summertime."  When the
waiter sang out, "coffee in the dark," it meant that a cup of black coffee
was wanted.  Pork and beans were known as "a band of music with the leader."
They called pork chops without gravy " a sheeny funeral with the hearse."
Pg.49: "fall money."  If you do not by any chance know what "fall
money" is, let me explain that the term is one used by the underworld to
describe a stake which crooks keep in reserve against emergency, such as
being required to put up bail for themselves or having to pay for the
services of a mouthpiece.  (See RHHDAS--ed.)
Pg. 97:  In the jargon of Tenderloin drinking dumps, a "whiskey down" meant a
drink of some nonintoxicating beverage which resembled rye and which was
served in a regular whiskey glass.
Pg. 120:  The dip privileges, in case you are unfamiliar with the lingo of
the underworld, would be an exclusive concession to the Jink to pick the
pockets of customers.
Pg. 131:  Blanche Ring...sang her famous ditty about "rings on her fingers,
bells on her toes."
Pg. 184:  ...Peacock Alley, the sumptuous corridor which ran parallel to
Thirty-fourth Street where beautifully gowned women and impeccably dressed
men preened themselves...
Pg. 236:  ...Wall Street "boiler rooms," through which phony securities were
sold to suckers.

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