Boston Cooking School Magazine recipes

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Sun Jul 23 14:48:25 UTC 2000


     I've been going through the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE, or AMERICAN
COOKERY.  It was first published in 1896.
    All of the issues are at the NYPL annex (off site), and it takes 2 days
to bring them over five at a time, so it could be a project to read through
30 years.
    Most of the recipes are also in Fannie Farmer's BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL
COOK BOOK(s), but the recipes are dated earlier by using the bi-monthly
magazine.

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APPLES A LA MANHATTAN

     The NYPL Menu Collection has "Pommes a la Manhattan" offered by
Delmonico's on October 28, 1886.  The event was a dinner celebrating the new
Statue of Liberty.
     New York was not "the Big Apple" at this time, but the dish is worth
recording.
     From the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE, Oct.-Nov. 1897, pg. 177, col. 1
(there is a photo with the recipe):

     _Apples a la Manhattan._
     Core and pare eight medium-sized cooking-apples.  Make ready some (col.
2) round pieces of sponge-cake--one for each apples--an inch in thickness,
and of the same size as the apple.  Make a syrup of a cup of sugar and a cup
of water.  Cook the apples very slowly in the syrup, turning them over once
in the meantime, until they are tender, then drain very carefully.  Sprinkle
the bits of cake with powdered sugar, and set them in a moderate oven, until
the sugar melts and runs over the cake.  Put an apple on each bit of cake, a
candied plum or cherry on each apple; and a half a glass of currant or
quince-jelly to the syrup, and cook until it is quite thick: then pour over
the whole, and serve either with or without a garnish of whipped cream.

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COUPE JACQUES

     Coupe St. Jacques was once one of the most popular desserts served at
New York City banquets.  The NYPL menu collection has _hundreds_ of menus
with this.  However, books such as Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD &
DRINK don't include it.
     The Delmonico's recipe is in the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE,
April-May 1901, pg. 279, col. 2:

     _Coupe Jacques (Ranhofer)_
     Lay in a vessel one peeled banana, cut in half-inch squares, one
well-peeled orange, having the meats lying between the intersections removed
with a knife and all the seeds suppressed, a slice of pineapple half an inch
thick, cut in dice, four ounces of grapes, two ounces of strawberries or
raspberries, four ounces of cherries, pears, or peaches, half a gill of
kirsch (pg. 280, col. 1--ed.) or maraschino, and a little powdered sugar.
Mingle all together, and keep cold in the can of a freezer, with ice packed
around.  To serve, fill wide champagne cups with this _macedoine_, cover the
_macedoine_ with fruit sherbet (orange, lemon, or pineapple) flavored to
taste with kirsch or maraschino.

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WALDORF SALAD (continued)

     From the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE, March-April 1903, pg. 375, col.
2:

     _Waldorf Salad (Oscar of The Waldorf)_
     "Peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about half an
inch square, also cut some celery the same (pg. 376, col. 1--ed.) way, and
mix it with the apple.  Be very careful not to let any seeds of the apples be
mixed with it.  The salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise."
     This is the original recipe.  The raisins of which you speak are an
innovation.  To use them, cut in halves and remove the seeds.  Then mix with
the apple and celery and, afterwards, with the mayonnaise.  English walnuts
or pecan nuts, broken in pieces, are often added to the apple and celery.
The proportions of the different ingredients are a matter of taste.  Half and
half of the leading ingredients, with enough dressing to moisten thoroughly,
answers nicely.

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BROWNIES (continued)

     This is the same recipe that's in Fannie Farmer's famous 1896 cookbook.
     From the first issue of the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE, June 1896,
pg. 43, col. 2:

     _Brownies._
     Cream one-third cupful of butter, add one-third cupful of powdered
sugar, one-third cupful of molasses, one egg well beaten, and seven-eighths
of a cupful of bread flour.  Add one cupful of pecan meats.  Bake in small
fancy tins, and place one-half a pecan on the centre of each cake.

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CHOW MEIN

     From the article "Marketing in Chinatown, with some Chinese Recipes,"
BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE, January 1903, pg. 245, col. 1:

     _CHOW MIN_
     The ingredients for this dish are chicken, celery, olives, a little
onion sometimes, olive oil, and noodles.
     The Chinese noodles and macaroni come in long strips.  Boil some of
these, pile upon a plate, and pour upon them the other ingredients, which
have been fried in the olive oil until quite brown.  The chicken must be
boned, and the celery and olives cut fine.  Rice and noodles replace bread;
and tea, not coffee, is served with everything.  So with this serve tea and
plums.

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KAFFEE-KLATSCH

    Not the first "kaffee-klatsch"citation (OED also has 1888), but useful is
the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE, December (Christmas) 1903, pg. 279, col.
2:

QUERY 816--Mrs. F. E. H., Redlands, Cal.: "Ideas for entertaining and menu
for a Kaffee-klatsch."
     _Kaffee-klatsch_
     The German Kaffee-klatsch is a very simple affair.  Verbal invitations
may be given or notes sent out by a messenger, as is most convenient.  The
young women who present themselves, in answer to the invitations, bring with
them some choice bits of needlework or knitting.  Tongues keep time with busy
fingers.  Before dark coffee and cakes of some sort are served, after which
the young women take their departure.  German coffee cake, springerlie,
Berlin rings, pfeffernusse, German crisps, egg rings, and almond cake, all of
which have been given in the magazine,--egg rings on page 263 of this
number,--are appropriate cakes for such an occasion.



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