DARE articles; Philpy; Beggar's Purse (1984)

[Bapopik at AOL.COM]

DARE ARTICLES

   There's a nice December 4th article about DARE in the CHICAGO SUN-TIMES.
Google for "Chicago lingo" and "DARE" or go directly to www.suntimes.com.
   This Sunday's William Safire column's "gifts of gab" book roundup mentions
DARE and Allan Metcalf's latest.
   I just went to the ADS web site and clicked on the DARE link.  I got a
pop-up ad for Pepto Bismol.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------------------------------------------
PHILPY

   Philpy, where are ye?  From John Mariani's ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN FOOD
AND DRINK (1999):

_philpy._  A South Carolina rice bread.  The name is of obscure origins.

   That's it.  No further explanation.  No date.  A recipe follows.
   So I opened my new DARE VOLUME IV P-SK and there's...nothing!!!!!
   So I opened my trusty SOUTHERN FOOD: AT HOME, ON THE ROAD, IN HISTORY
(University of North Carolina Press, 1993) by John Egerton.  Also nothing!
   A Google check says that it dates from before the Civil War.  I didn't
spot it on any Making of America database.  I'm away from the other databases
right now.  Could there be a different spelling?
   I spotted "philpy" in an index to AMERICAN COOKERY, June-July 1933-May
1934, pg. 96.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------------------------------------------
BEGGAR'S PURSE

   The Quilted Giraffe, 955 Second Avenue (between 50th and 51st Streets),
got a rare four-star review (highest rating) from NEW YORK TIMES critic
Marian Burros.  Mariani includes "beggar's purse," and I found the restaurant
review on the full text search.  Barry Wine is the restaurant owner.


   20 January 1984, NEW YORK TIMES, pg. C14:
   Beggar's purses, Mr. Wine's seductive signature dish, carries a $20
supplement but is absolutely irresistible: Beluga caviar and creme fraiche
wrapped in the most delicate of tiny crepes and tied, like a hobo's sack,
with chives, perched on a bed of lemon slices, which adds a lovely acid
balance to the caviar.  And when the restaurant serves truffles, brought to
the table in baskets to tempt diners with their heady fragrance, the portion
is generous enough to suffuse the dish with the same perfume and flavor.

(Why is it called "beggar's purses" if it costs so much?--ed.)