London Broil, Bratwurst, Grand Marnier (1902); Sugar in Snow (1941)

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LONDON BROIL, BRATWURST, GRAND MARNIER


WHAT'S WHAT?
AT HOME AND ABROAD
by F. Sturgis Allen
New York: The Bradley-White Co.
1902

   This book contains a very nice "BILL OF FARE VOCABULARY" on pages 11-62.
I'll list a few items of interest.

Pg. 23:
_box oysters._  Oysters that have deep roundish shells, generally large.
_box stew._  A stew of box oysters.
(DARE has 1881 for "box oyster," but no "box stew"--ed.)

Pg. 23:
_bratwurst_ (brat'voorst). (German.)  A kind of sausage.
(OED has 1911--ed.)

Pg. 15:
_cafe bavaroise_ (ka-fa' ba-va-rwa').  Coffee with whipped cream.

Pg. 28:
_chil'i sauce._  A sauce condiment made with chilis, tomatoes, etc.
   (OED has 1960 for "chili sauce"?--ed.)
_Chinese sturgeon soup._  A soup of beef and veal, containing pieces of
cartilage from the sturgeon's head boiled tender.

Pg. 29:
_club sandwich._  A sandwich of toast, chicken, lettuce, bacon, or ham.  Some
use turkey instead of chicken.

Pg. 29:
_cock tail._  A kind of mixed drink.  See MARTINI, and MANHATTAN.
_Cocktail of oysters or clams._  A dish containing oysters or clams seasoned
with ketchup, pepper, etc., and served in a tumbler or glass.
(EVANS DIGITAL is really difficult to use, and it's not even finished.  It
goes up to 1785.  I didn't see "cock tail" or "election cake," but Fred
Shapiro can re-check--ed.)

Pg. 34:
_Florence cakes_ or _Florentines_.  A kind of cake consisting of a thin shell
of puff paste containing a composition of curds, butter, yolks, flour, bitter
almonds, and lemon, or a very similar composition.
(An OED Addition in 1993 has "Florentine" from 1948.  This stuff stinks--ed.)

Pg. 25:
_French toast._  Bread dipped in egg and milk and fried.

Pg. 39:
_kholod'noy._  A Russian fish soup containing caviare.

Pg. 40:
_lebkuchen_ (lap'koo-ken).  A cake of flour and honey, variously flavored;
also, a smilar cake of flour and sugar.
(Not in OED--ed.)

Pg. 41:
_London broil._  A false fillet (piece under the kidney) rare broiled.
(OED has 1969.  Way-off entries like this should be corrected immediately.
Merriam-Webster has 1946.  John Mariani states: "It seems more specifically
American in origin and dates in print at least to 1931"--ed.)

Pg. 44:
_New York baked beans._  Beans boiled and then baked, and stirred so that the
beans are mashed.

Pg. 47:
_piskinioffs_ (pes'ke-nyofs).  Polish cakes.  See BABA.

Pg. 47:
_pithiviers cakes_ (pe-te-vya').  A kind of cake with a sweet paste of
almonds, pistacchios, or filberts.
(OED has 1970, although an 1846 cite is in brackets--ed.)

Pg. 48:
_poor man's sauce._  Sauce of chopped onions, pepper, and salt, with a little
water.

Pg. 53:
_schmarn._  A kind of pancake.
(No OED entry, but there is one 1952 hit for "schmarren"--ed.)

Pg. 55:
_South'ern style._  Baked with molasses poured over them;--said of sweet
potatoes.
_soy._  A Japanese, Chinese, or East Indian sauce made from a kind of bean.
It is salty, aromatic, and in the East Indian variety, sirupy or thick.

Pg. 60:
_Grand Marnier_ (graN mar-nya').
(OED has 1905--ed.)

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SUGAR IN SNOW

WINTER IN VERMONT
by Charles Edward Crane
New York: Alfred A. Knopf
1941

   More "sugar in snow," in case DARE is interested.  Note here that it's
"sugar in snow," not "sugar on snow."  See ADS-L archives for other cites.


Pg. 166:  (Chapter--ed.) 24
   _SALT PORK AND MILK GRAVY_

Pg. 168:  But here goes for a recipe for salt pork and milk gravy I have
filched from Alice Easton, writing of traditional Vermont foods in the
Middlebury College _News Letter_:
   "Take a chunk of fat salk pork and slice it one-quarter of an inch thick.
Cover with cold water and bring it to a boil to take out the excess salt.
Drain the pork and dry it.  Then roll in flour and fry slowly in hot pork
drippings in an iron spider if you have one.  After it has been well browned
on both sides, which takes about twenty minutes, remove the pork to a warm
place.  Empty part of the drippings, leaving enough to make gravy.  Add flour
and stir, cooking until the paste is brown, then add milk (hot preferably)
and stir until smooth.  The exact proportion would be one-fourth cup of pork
drippings, one-fourth of flour, and one-half teaspoon salt to one pint of
milk for a family of four."

Pg. 172:  I love to come home of a cold noon and smell the steams of a boiled
dinner.  (Most of us have dinner at noon.)  And as a sequel to such a dinner
comes "red flannel" hash.
   Indian pudding, made of cornmeal, molasses, ginger, and milk, is entitled
to an A-1 rating as a cold-weather dessert.  For second prize there may be a
tie between apple Brown Betty or apple dumpling and mince pie, with deep-dish
apple pie a close third.
   Anyone looking for a gustatory adventure in Vermont winter eating should
not overlook the good old dried codfish and salt salmon, served not with the
almost skim-milk paste that one sometimes gets in the city, but with good
country cream, and hot.

OPP. Pg. 299, photo caption:  RIGHT;  Sweet ending: close-up of sugar in
snow.