Stir Frying; Chawan Mushi; Torrijas & Migas (1955)

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Sun Jun 27 03:25:59 UTC 2004

   HOW TO EAT AND DRINK IN CHINESE is now selling for $285 a copy on Amazon!
   I've been going through CHEF D'OEUVRE.  Is the author of the following article the same Chao who wrote the above book (mentioned recently in The New York Times)?

   Number 3 Autumn 1955, CHEF D'OEUVRE, "The Oriental Touch" article series
Wang Chao
Pg. 42:  Su Tungp'o pork and Kiang bean-curd are named after writers.
Pg. 43:  The _Canton_ School...The _Fukien_ School...
   The _Shantung_ School is notable for having hardly any Chow dishes.  Like Hunan, it specializes, favouring dishes prepared with "wine-stock," "soft-frying" dishes, grilled duck (the famous "Peking duck") and swan's liver cooked in wine stock.
   The _Szechuen_ School is noted for hot-tasting dishes; also for ham, fungus dishes, vegetables cooked with chicken fat, and chicken meat wrapped in paper and fried.  It tends to oiliness.
   The _Kiangsu_ and _Yang Chow_ School is not (Pg. 44-ed.) as definite a school as the others, but has certain specialties: Chow shrimps, "Lion's head" (a meat ball), Chow eel, thinly sliced, Guann Shi (sliced bean-curd prepared with tasty broth), ham, crab, and Hung Shau fish (lightly fried, then cooked in a rich sauce).
    THE general methods of cooking used are in line with Western techniques: grilling, braising, steaming, deep-frying, etc.  However, one method had a character of its own and occupies a position of importance in China: Chow, which means "low-oil-quick-stir frying."

Number 2 Summer 1955, CHEF D'OEUVRE, "The Oriental Touch" article series
Pg. 64:  A light dish for ladies also features chicken: _chawanmushi_, steamed egg custard.  The chicken is covered with seasonal vegetables--in spring, lily bulbs and young peas in the pod, in autumn, mushrooms, chestnuts, trefoil, and gingko nuts--and an egg custard.

   Spring Number 1955, CHEF D'OEUVRE, "The Oriental Touch" article series
Pg. 47:  _Chupatties_, _papars_, _puries_ or _luchies_ are sent with some curries, but a guest may ask for these according to his fancy. (...)
   _Foogaths_ or _Bajees_ are a combination of vegetables fried with curry powder and are (pg. 48--ed.) very popular.
Pg. 48:  TANDUR cooking is another specialty.  The edibles are cooked in ovens made of bricks, or stone and clay, called Tandura.  Only cooks who specialize in this work are employed.
   Other well-known curries are _Vindaloos_ (pork and duck, etc., with a proportion of vinegar); and _Frithath_ curry, made in the same way--the hottest of curries.
   Parsee cooking is another specialty where large amounts of spices and coriander are used.
   _Kofta_, vegetables and egg curries, all appear on the menus, beside the numerous _Kabobs_ and _Parathas_ which are served with a garnishing of sliced raw onions, cucumbers, tomatoes and raw green chillies.

   Spring Number 1955, CHEF D'OEUVRE, pg. 66:
(The revised OED has 1968 for "monkey gland steak."  I mistaken thought the date was much earlier and didn't copy the full page--ed.)

   Spring Number 1955, CHEF D'OEUVRE, pg. 33:
   Take a sandwich loaf (preferably a small one) and cut several half-inch slices.  Soak the slices in cold milk and drain thoroughly.  Roll them in flour and beaten egg-yolk and fry golden brown on both sides in olive oil.  Drain well.  Make a syrup (beforehand if possible: it should be cool) as follows: dissolve 1/2 lb. sugar in 1 cup water over heat.  Flavour with a little cinnamon and lemon rind.  Boil for five minutes, cool and add a glass of white wine or sherry.  Pour this cool syrup over the hot Torrijas and serve.
Pg. 35:
   Dice a white loaf (crust and crumb) in half-inch cubes--the Spanish do not use a knife, but tear the bread.  Sprinkle the pieces with cold water and salt and leave in a damp cloth overnight.
   Allow 8 tbs. olive oil to each pound of bread.  Fry the pieces in this oil, adding garlic if you wish, until golden-brown.  Take off heat and cover for five minutes.
   The Migas can be served in various ways: with poached or fried eggs, slices of sausage, or sprinkled with paprika.  For sweeter tastes, they are served with chocolate or milky coffee.  A special way is called Migas Canas (white crumbs).  While frying, jam is poured over the Migas.  When the pan is taken off the fire, 1 pint of milk is added.  The Migas are eaten out of the pan--or else the milk and Migas are served separately, if you have formal guests!

TORRIJAS--721 English Google hits
CHAWAN MUSHI--1,860 Google hits, 86 Google Groups hits
(Both are not in OED)

Members at The Guild of Food Writers
December 1999. Torrijas by Sarah Jane Evans. ... In fact Torrijas are simply a variation
of what is known in French as Pain Perdu, and in English as Eggy Bread. ... - 17k - Jun 24, 2004 - Cached - Similar pages

$25 and Under
Eric Asimov. New York Times (1857-Current file). New York, N.Y.: Apr 29, 1994. p. C21 (1 page):
   As with everything else at El Cid, dessert is not to be missed.  Torrijas ($3.75), the specialty of the house, is a dish worthy of the designation.  It is simply a slice of bread soaked in egg, wine, cinnamon, citrus juice, honey and sugar and grilled in butter.  It sounds like french toast but tastes like a perfectly caramelized tarte Tatin.

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