California roll (1979)

[Benjamin Zimmer]

Here's one for Barry-- from a review of Niikura, a sushi bar in Tarzana
run by Masayuki "Nick" Niikura...

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Los Angeles Times, Nov 25, 1979, (Calendar) p. 117/1
Then there was a sushi of "house cheese" with soybeans, again wrapped in
seaweed; a "California roll" (Nick is not hung up on the traditional) of
shrimp, avocado, the rice rolled in sesame seeds, a cucumber "flower"
sprouting from the middle; finally, my favorite, a sushi of salmon skin
and a kind of marinated pickle, the interaction of which was celestial.
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--Ben Zimmer